Hudson Vest, a FREE crochet racerback vest pattern + tutorial

Transition through the seasons like a true diva when you layer on the Hudson Vest, a FREE crochet racerback vest pattern designed for Crochet Academy.

The calendar says fall, and I am fully committing — my wardrobe included. But when the mornings are crisp and the afternoons still have the audacity to be blazing hot, you need a piece that can manage both. Enter the Hudson Vest — the layer that pulls your whole outfit together without overdoing it. And I’m providing the free pattern and full tutorial video so you can start yours today.

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Get the Hudson Vest Pattern

• FREE PATTERN: Keep scrolling to view the FREE version of the Hudson Vest.
• PRINTABLE PDF: Purchase a printable PDF version of the Hudson Vest from Ravelry or TLYarnCrafts.com
• CROCHET KIT: Customize your all-in-one Hudson Vest kit from Lion Brand

How to Get the Perfect Fit on Your Crochet Racerback Vest

Crocheting your first garment is one of those things that feels scarier than it actually is. The investment of time and energy is real, but so is the payoff — and the Hudson Vest was designed to make that first garment experience as smooth as possible. Sized XS–5XL for bust sizes 28″–60″, there’s a fit in here for a wide range of bodies.

To find your size, measure the fullest part of your chest with your arms at your sides. If you carry more of your volume in your chest than your shoulders, measure your upper bust by threading the tape snugly under your arms and across the upper chest — this will give you a more accurate fit through the shoulder and strap area.

Before you dive in, make a gauge swatch — and yes, I mean it this time. The Hudson Vest is constructed from linen stitch squares, and the combination of squares for your size constitutes the entire garment. One 9-round square should measure exactly 4″. If it’s coming up larger, drop your hook down by half a millimeter or a full millimeter and try again. If it’s too small, size up. It might take a couple of tries to land on the right hook, but getting your gauge right is the single most important thing you can do to ensure your crochet racerback vest fits as intended.

Why Yarn Choice Matters for Your Hudson Vest

Dressing for the in-between season is a whole thing — and if you’ve ever stood in your closet at the crack of dawn trying to figure out if you need a jacket, you know exactly what I mean. Whatever you reach for has to work at 8am when it’s crisp outside and still make sense at 2pm when it’s suddenly summer again. For the Hudson Vest, that meant finding a yarn that could do a lot without feeling like a lot — light enough to avoid bulk, structured enough to let the linen stitch squares do their thing, and breathable enough to actually be comfortable when the weather changes its mind.

Lion Brand’s Cottino ended up being exactly what I was looking for. It’s a DK weight cotton-wool blend from a Two of Wands x Lion Brand collaboration, and the natural fiber blend made perfect sense for this project. The cotton keeps things light and airy and holds color in a way that makes the two-tone design really sing. The wool adds just enough warmth to make this feel like a real fall piece without making you sweat through your afternoon. And the 24 colorways — all soft, earthy, and easy to wear — make it hard to choose just one combination for your crochet racerback vest.

Ready to start your Hudson Vest? Customize your kit from Lion Brand!

Get the Hudson Vest Pattern

• FREE PATTERN: Keep scrolling to view the FREE version of the Hudson Vest.
• PRINTABLE PDF: Purchase a printable PDF version of the Hudson Vest from Ravelry or TLYarnCrafts.com
• CROCHET KIT: Customize your all-in-one Hudson Vest kit from Lion Brand

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Hudson Vest Details

DESCRIPTION

Transition through the seasons like the true diva you are when you sport the Hudson Vest. This cropped racerback tank looks effortlessly chic with a T-shirt or a blousy collared shirt. Whether you’re going for preppy, Renaissance, or something only you can define, this layering piece is ready to tie your entire outfit together.

MATERIALS

• Lion Brand Cottino. See Sizes below for the exact amount of yarn in each color for your size. Sample made in the colors Powder (A) and Teddy (B). Substitute the sport/DK weight yarn of your choice. CHECK YOUR GAUGE!
• 5.5mm crochet hook (try this set!)
• Scissors
• Tape measure
• Tapestry needle
• Locking stitch markers
• 4-5 28mm buttons depending on your size
• Garment steamer (like this one)
• T-pins or Knit Blockers (like these)

SIZES

All sizes are intended to have -2-0″ of negative ease. Drop your hook by 0.5mm or 1.0mm if you are between sizes. Photos show a model with a 35″ bust in size M.

• XS, intended for bust 28-30″; 1 skein A, 3 skeins B
• S, intended for bust 32-34″; 2 skeins A, 3 skeins B
• M, intended for bust 36-38″; 2 skeins A, 3 skeins B
• L, intended for bust 40-42″; 2 skeins A, 3 skeins B
• XL, intended for bust 44-46″; 2 skeins A, 4 skeins B
• 2XL, intended for bust 48-50″; 2 skeins A, 4 skeins B
• 3XL, intended for bust 52-54″; 2 skeins A, 4 skeins B
• 4XL, intended for bust 56-58″; 2 skeins A, 4 skeins B
• 5XL, intended for bust 60-62″; 2skeinsn A, 4 skeins B

GAUGE

All gauge measurements are for blocked fabric.

• 4” = one 9-round square
• 3” = 13 rows x 16 sts in linen stitch pattern (ch-1 sp counted as a stitch in gauge)

ABBREVIATIONS

Cc = change color

Ch = chain

Ch-sp = chain space

Dc = double crochet

MR = magic ring (learn it here!)

Rep = repeat

RS = right side

S-sc = standing single crochet (learn it here!)

Sc = single crochet

Sc2tog = single crochet 2 together

Sk = skip

Sl St = slip stitch

Sp = space

WS = wrong side

SPECIAL STITCH

Standing Single Crochet (s-sc): Place a slipknot on your hook. Insert hook into desired space, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.  

NOTES

• Construction: This vest begins by making enough linen stitch squares for your desired size. Squares are then whip stitched together. Pick up stitches along the front that eventually extend into the straps. Pick up stitches and crochet along the back, which will become the anchor for the straps. Add the button band and get creative adding buttons to your vest. Finally, finish with a single crochet border around the neck opening and the armholes for a polished look.
• Cupping: You will experience cupping while making your granny squares – the center section protrudes instead of lying flat. This is normal and will be addressed with steam blocking.
• Crochet Shorthand: This pattern uses crochet shorthand in some places. For example, “2sc” means to place two single crochet stitches where indicated. Also, “sc 3” means to work 1 single crochet stitch in each of the next 3 stitches.
• Left-Handed Crocheters: This pattern includes some directional instructions, particularly when completing the Back. These instructions are written with right-handed crocheters in mind. If you are a left-handed crocheter, mirror these instructions and follow the pattern as written. 

Hudson Vest Pattern

Excited to start your crochet racerback vest? I’ve got a helpful tutorial video for you:

Square Pattern

With A, make MR.

ROUND 1: In MR, ch 1, dc 12, pull tail to close MR, join with a sl st in the first dc of the round. DO NOT TURN. (12 dc)

ROUND 2: Ch 1, (sc 3, ch 3) 4 times, join with a sl st in the first sc of the round, turn, sl st into ch-3 sp. (12 sc)

ROUND 3: Ch 1, sc in ch-3 sp, ch 1, sk next sc, sc in following st, ch 1, sk next st, [(sc, ch 3, sc) in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, sk next st, sc in following st, ch 1, sk next st] 3 times, sc in final ch-3 sp, ch 3, sl st in the first st of the round, turn, sl st into ch-3 sp. (12 sc)

ROUND 4: Ch 1, sc in sp at base of ch, ch 1, [(sc in next ch-sp, ch 1) to corner**, (sc, ch 3, sc) in corner, ch 1] around, ending last rep at **, sc in final corner, ch 3, sl st in the first st of the round, turn, sl st into ch-3 sp. (16 sc)

ROUND 5: Ch 1, sc in sp at base of ch, ch 1, [(sc in next ch-sp, ch 1) to corner**, (sc, ch 3, sc) in corner, ch 1] around, ending last rep at **, sc in final corner, ch 3, sl st in the first st of the round, turn. (20 sc)

ROUND 6-7 (8, 9, 10) (7, 8, 9) (7, 10): Rep Round 5 an additional 2 (3, 4, 5) (2, 3, 4) (2, 5) times. Fasten off A. [28 (32, 36, 40) (28, 32, 36) (28, 40) sc]

LAST ROUND (RS): Turn square so RS is facing. With B, join with a s-sc [tutorial] in any corner ch-3 sp, rep Round 5. Fasten off. [32 (36, 40, 44) (32, 36, 40) (32, 44) sc]

Use the Square Pattern instructions to make the number of squares for your size:

Size	Rounds in Color A	Rounds in Color B	Total Squares Needed
XS	7	1	24
S	8	1	24
M	9	1	16
L	10	1	16
XL	7	1	36
2X	8	1	36
3X	9	1	36
4X	7	1	48
5X	10	1	36

Weave all ends into like color.

Gently pull squares to help them flatten. Pin individual squares to blocking board and steam block flat.

Whip stitch squares together using the diagrams below. Use these images to visualize the layout of your vest squares. Lay the squares out according to your size and whip stitch them together. Shaded areas indicate the Front and Back of your vest – unshaded areas are the sides. Red arrows indicate where to join for the Front and Back.

Steam block final panel.

Front

STEP 1: Mark the ch-3 sp at the end of the 2^nd (2^nd, 2^nd, 2^nd), (3^rd, 3^rd, 3^rd), (4^th, 3^rd) square. This will be the end of Front Side 1.

STEP 2: Mark the beginning ch-3 sp of the 7^th (7^th, 7^th, 7^th), (10^th, 10^th, 10^th), (13^th, 10^th) square. This will be the beginning of the Front Side 2.

SIDE 1

With B and RS facing you, join with a sl st in the ch-3 corner at the top right of panel.

ROW 1: Ch 1, sc2tog the corner ch-sp and 1^st sc, ch 1, [(sc in next ch-sp, ch 1*, sk 1) to next corner between squares, sc2tog the ch-3 sps of the two squares, ch 1] across row, ending last rep at * when you reach the last sc before the marked ch-3 sp, sc2tog the next sc and the following ch-3 sp, turn. Remove marker.

ROW 2: Ch 1, sc2tog the first and second sc, ch 1, (sc in next ch-sp, ch 1*, sk 1) across row, ending last rep at * when you reach the last 2 sc, sc2tog the next 2 sts, turn.

Rep Row 2 until the working row has 4 (4, 4, 4) (5, 5, 5) (6, 6) sc.

NEXT ROW: Ch 1, sc in the sc at base of ch, sc in each ch-sp and st across row, turn. Mark this row.

NEXT ROW: Ch 1, sc in each st across row, turn.

Rep last row to 34 rows, including the marked row. Fasten off leaving a long tail for seaming, then a place marker in the live loop.

SIDE 2

With B and RS facing you, join with a sl st in the marked ch-3 corner that you marked in Step 2.

Repeat instructions from Side 1.

Back

FOR SIZES XS, S, M, L, AND 4XL: Mark the first and last ch-3 corner of the center 2 (2, 2, 2) (X, X, X) (4, X) squares.

With B and RS facing you, join with a sl st in the ch-3 corner in the first marked corner.

ROW 1: Ch 1, sc2tog the corner ch-sp and 1^st sc, ch 1, [(sc in next ch-sp, ch 1*, sk 1) to next corner between squares, sc2tog the ch-3 sps of the two squares, ch 1] across row, ending last rep at * when you reach the last sc before the marked ch-3 sp, sc2tog the next sc and the following ch-3 sp, turn. Remove marker.

ROW 2: Ch 1, sc2tog the first and second sc, ch 1, (sc in next ch-sp, ch 1*, sk 1) across row, ending last rep at * when you reach the last 2 sc, sc2tog the next 2 sts, turn.

Rep Row 2 until the working row has 8 (8, 8, 8) (X, X, X) (12, X) sc.

NEXT ROW: Ch 1, sc in the sc at base of ch, sc in each ch-sp and st across row. Fasten off.

FOR SIZES XL, 2XL, 3XL, AND 5XL: Locate the center 4 squares. Starting from the outermost corner, mark the sp before the X (X, X, X) (4^th, 5^th, 5^th) (X, 6^th) sc on the first and last of those squares. Reference the diagram on Page 10 for placing your markers.

With B and RS facing you, join with a sl st in the right-most marked space.

ROW 1: Ch 1, sc2tog the joining sp and the next sc, ch 1, [(sc in next ch-sp, ch 1*, sk 1) to next corner between squares, sc2tog the ch-3 sps of the two squares, ch 1] across row, ending last rep at * when you reach the last sc before the marked ch-sp, sc2tog the next sc and the following ch-sp, turn. Remove markers.

ROW 2: Ch 1, sc2tog the first and second sc, ch 1, (sc in next ch-sp, ch 1*, sk 1) across row, ending last rep at * when you reach the last 2 sc, sc2tog the next 2 sts, turn.

Rep Row 2 until the working row has X (X, X, X) (10, 10, 10) (X, 12) sc.

NEXT ROW: Ch 1, sc in the sc at base of ch, sc in each ch-sp and st across row. Fasten off.

Fit Check

Bring the straps to meet the back. Use locking stitch markers OR gently whip stitch the straps to the back and try on your vest.

• If you are happy with the fit, remove the markers holding the live loop of the straps, lift the loop up and out of the work, and use the remaining tail to whip stitch both straps to the back.
• If the straps are too long, remove the same number of rows from each strap, then use the remaining tail to whip stitch both straps to the back.
• If the straps are too short, add the same number of rows to each strap, then use the remaining tail to whip stitch both straps to the back.

Button Band & Border

Section Notes:

• The button band is worked in two parts. First is the right band, which has no holes, then the left band, which will have the buttonholes.
• Left and right refer to the direction when wearing the garment. 

RIGHT BAND

With B and RS facing, join with a sl st in the bottom corner of panel to work toward the neckline.

ROW 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in the sp at base of ch, sc in each ch-sp and st across row, turn. 

ROWS 2-6: Ch 1, sc in each st across row, turn. Fasten off after last row.

LEFT BAND

With B and WS facing, join with a sl st in the bottom corner of panel to work toward the neckline.

ROW 1 (WS): Ch 1, sc in the sp at base of ch, sc in each ch-sp and st across row, turn.  

ROW 2 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st across row, turn.

Place 5 (5, 4, 4) (5, 5, 5) (5, 5) markers along the row to designate button holes.

ROW 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across row, turn. When you reach a marker, ch 3, sk the marked st and the st after, sc in the following st. Remove all markers.

ROW 4: Ch 1, sc in each st across row, turn. When you reach a ch-3 sp, 2sc in the sp. 

ROW 5: Ch 1, sc in each st across row, turn. Fasten off after last row.

ROW 6 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st across row. DO NOT FASTEN OFF. Rotate to work along the bottom edge.  

BORDER

SECTION NOTE: This is the border for the neck opening. It is completed in a single round, working along the bottom edge of the vest, then up the right band, around the neck opening, and down the left band to finish the round.

BOTTOM OF VEST: 2sc in same st as last st, mark the first of these two sts, sc in each st and ch-sp along the bottom, working a sc2tog over the ch-3 spaces of joining squares. 3sc in the corner of the right band, rotate to work along the right band.

RIGHT BAND: Sc in each sc to the corner, 3sc in the corner, rotate to work along the neck opening.

NECK OPENING: Sc in each row end along Front Side 1 and strap to where the straps meet, sc2tog over the last rows of the two straps, sc in each row end along the second strap and Front Side 2 to left band. Sc in each row end of the button band to corner, 3sc in corner, rotate to work along left band.

LEFT BAND: Sc in each sc to the corner, sc in the marked st. Fasten off. 

Arm Hole

ROUND 1: Join with a sl st in any ch-1 sp at the bottom center of the arm hole. Sc in each sc, ch-sp, and row end around, join with a sl st in the first sc of the round. Fasten off.  

Repeat for the other arm hole.

Finishing

• Weave in all ends.
• Steam block to finished dimensions.
• Use B to sew buttons onto left band, ensuring they line up with the button holes.

Prefer an ad-free, printable version of this pattern? I got you!

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The Hudson Vest is the transitional layer that your wardrobe is calling for. Have fun choosing color palettes and picking buttons to add a unique flourish to your everyday outfits.

Before you dive into your next WIP, be sure to share your project on Instagram and Ravelry. Then come show off in the Yarn Hive – we can’t wait to see what you made!

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