You don’t have to be afraid to crochet your first sweater! With the Rochester Pullover pattern, it’s easier than you think.
Crocheting a sweater that you enjoy making AND that fits well is within your reach. If you know basic crochet skills and want to challenge yourself to something new, try out the Rochester Pullover! Keep scrolling for the FREE pattern.
This post contains affiliate links that support the content on TLYCBlog.com. All opinions are my own. Find my Privacy & Disclosures Policy here.
PIN IT NOW, MAKE IT LATER!
Find a printer friendly, ad-free PDF version of the Rochester Pullover in my Ravelry shop and on TLYarnCrafts.com. The PDF version is a full-color, 7-page set of instructions with a full supply list and construction details.
Get the Rochester Pullover in a kit from Lion Brand! Pick from 4 lovely shades of Touch of Alpaca yarn and get your all-in-one kit today. Kit includes the yarn necessary for the size you select plus a B&W printed copy of the pattern. Click here to get your Rochester Pullover kit from Lion Brand.
Keep scrolling for the FREE version of the Rochester Pullover.
WHY IS THIS THE PERFECT BEGINNER CROCHET SWEATER?
The biggest concern most crocheters have about making a sweater is getting the fit just right. This is especially stressful when it comes to making their first sweater when they’re only used to making small accessories or toys.
With the Rochester Pullover, all of those concerns go out the window. I’ve poured over every aspect of this sweater to make sure making AND wearing it would be a crocheter’s dream.
I kept the pattern simple, involving minimal shaping through the body for a relaxed and casual fit. I took great care designing the sleeves to make sure they are flattering on all body types. Ribbing accents on the collar, cuffs, and hem make the Rochester Pullover wearable over leggings, jeans, or slacks.
Explore these other beginner-friendly FREE crochet garment patterns:
CROCHET MADE EASY, WITH A KIT!
To make this sweater even easier to crochet, I’ve partnered with my friends at Lion Brand Yarn to bring you the full Rochester Pullover project kit. The kit includes all of the Touch of Alpaca yarn you need in your specified size plus a printed black-and-white copy of the pattern.
Skip the ads and get your Rochester Pullover crochet kit from Lion Brand today. Click here for details.
FALL IN LOVE WITH THE EXTENDED SINGLE CROCHET MESH STITCH
The Rochester Pullover uses one of my most loved crochet stitch patterns – the extended single crochet mesh pattern. I’ve used this stitch pattern for several of my designs, including the Summertime Tee, the Summertime Tank, and the French Press Cardi. I just can’t get enough!
Incorporating the texture and visual interest of an extended single crochet with the airiness of mesh made from chain spaces makes the Rochester Pullover both warm and breathable. It’s the perfect sweater for late winter when it’s too warm for a coat but too cool for short sleeves.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT YARN
I’ve been wanting to try out Lion Brand’s Touch of Alpaca yarn since they introduced their Touch Of collection (they also have Touch of Merino, Touch of Mohair, and Touch of Cashmere!). Touch of Alpaca is an acrylic blend with just 10% alpaca.
Alpaca is warmer and slightly heavier than wool, by nature, lending some extra comfiness to the Rochester Pullover. If this is your first time trying Touch of Alpaca, check out the sweater kit to pick your favorite color.
If alpaca isn’t your speed, a comparable worsted weight yarn would work well for this pattern. Some Lion Brand alternatives would be Pound of Love, Basic Stitch Premium, or even LB Collection’s Mako Cotton for a more summery feel.
Do you enjoy the FREE patterns available on TLYCBlog.com? Pin this post to support my blog and look forward to more FREE content!
Click this Image to Pin this Post!
Rochester Pullover Details
Find a printer-friendly version of this pattern on Ravelry and TLYarnCrafts.com. Or get the all-in-one kit from Lion Brand!
MATERIALS:
- Lion Brand Touch of Alpaca Yarn in color Dusty Blue. Sample uses 6 (7, 7, 8, 9, 10) balls
- 4mm and 5mm crochet hooks (this set has all of the sizes you need!)
- Scissors
- Tape measure
- 3 locking stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
FINISHED SIZES:
S, (M, L, XL, 2XL 3XL). All sizes intended to have 2-6″ positive ease. Measurements taken before blocking.
- Bust – 38 (42, 44, 48, 52, 56)”
- Length – 23 (23, 25, 25, 26.5, 26.5)”
GAUGE:
4″ = 17 sts in (esc + ch 1) pattern x 11 rows, unblocked
ABBREVIATIONS:
BLO = back loop only
Ch = chain
Esc = extended single crochet (pull up a loop in the indicated stitch, ch 1, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook)
Esc2tog = extended single crochet 2 together (pull up a loop in the first indicated stitch, ch 1, pull up a loop in the next indicated stitch, ch 1, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops on hook – decrease made)
Sc = single crochet
Sk = skip
Sl st = slip stitch
St(s) = stitch(es)
Tch = turning chain
PATTERN NOTES:
- Pattern is written for size S with M, L, XL, 2XL, and 3XL in parentheses.
- Numbers in parentheses at the end of some rows indicate the total number of stitches in that row.
- Note hook size changes – 4mm hook used for bottom ribbing and sleeve ribbing. 5mm hook used for sweater body and collar.
- Starting ch 3 counts as esc + 1 throughout pattern.
Rochester Pullover Pattern
BACK
RIBBING
ROW 1: With 4mm hook, ch 11 (11, 11, 15, 15, 15), sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across row, turn. (10, 10, 10, 14, 14, 14 sc)
ROW 2: Ch 1, sc BLO in each st across row, turn. Repeat Row 2 to 83 (91, 95, 105, 113, 123) rows.
BODY
ROW 1: Rotate ribbing to work along row ends. With 5mm hook, ch 1, sc in the end of each row, turn. (83, 91, 95, 105, 113, 123 sc)
ROW 2: Ch 3, sk first 2 sc, esc in next sc, (ch 1, sk 1 sc, esc in next sc) across row, turn. (42, 46, 48, 53, 57, 62 esc)
ROW 3: Ch 3, sk first esc, esc in next esc, (ch 1, esc in next esc) across row, placing last esc in 2nd ch of tch, turn. (42, 46, 48, 53, 57, 62 esc)
Repeat Row 3 to 23 (23, 25, 25, 26.5, 26.5)” including ribbing. Make note of the number of rows worked in this section. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
FRONT
Work as for BACK until 8 rows remain. Place markers on the 15th and 28th (16th and 31st, 17th and 32nd, 18th and 36th, 21st and 37th, 23rd and 40th) esc of the last row, as well as on the tch.
LEFT NECK SHAPING
ROW 1: Ch 3, sk first esc, esc in next esc, (ch 1, esc in next esc) across row, working last esc in first marked st, turn. Remove marker. (15, 16, 17, 18, 21, 23 esc)
ROW 2: Ch 3, sk first esc, esc2tog over next 2 esc, (ch 1, esc in next esc) across row, placing last esc in 2nd ch of tch, turn. (14, 15, 16, 17, 20, 22 esc)
ROW 3: Ch 3, sk first esc, esc in next esc, (ch 1, esc in next esc) across row, placing last esc in 2nd ch of tch, turn.
ROW 4: Repeat Row 2. (13, 14, 15, 16, 19, 21 esc)
ROW 5: Repeat Row 3.
ROW 6: Repeat Row 2. (12, 13, 14, 15, 18, 20 esc)
ROWS 7-8: Repeat Row 3. Fasten off after Row 8.
RIGHT NECK SHAPING
Join with sl st in 2nd ch of marked tch. Remove marker. Repeat Rows 1-8 of LEFT NECK SHAPING.
SLEEVES
RIBBING
ROW 1: With 4mm hook, ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across row, turn. (10 sc)
ROW 2: Ch 1, sc BLO in each st across row, turn.
Repeat Row 2 to 37 (37, 39, 39, 43, 43) rows.
SLEEVE
ROW 1: Rotate ribbing to work along row ends. With 5mm hook, ch 1, sc in the end of each row, turn. (37, 37, 39, 39, 43, 43 sc)
ROW 2: Ch 3, sk first 2 sc, esc in next sc, (ch 1, sk 1 sc, esc in next sc) across row, turn. (19, 19, 20, 20, 22, 22 esc)
The remaining instructions for all sizes of the sleeve can be found in the chart at this link.
ASSEMBLY
STEP 1: Hold FRONT and BACK panels together (right side and wrong side of panels are identical). Using the leftover tails, seam shoulders from outer edge toward neck shaping.
STEP 2: Lay FRONT and BACK panels flat. Seam the SLEEVES to the FRONT and BACK panels using leftover tails, aligning the shoulder seam with the midpoint of the SLEEVE.
STEP 3: Hold FRONT and BACK panels together. Seam the SLEEVES from end of ribbing to under arm, then down sides.
COLLAR
ROW 1: With 5mm hook, ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across row, turn. (6 sc)
ROW 2: Ch 1, sc BLO in each st across row, turn.
Repeat Row 2 to the length needed to fit around the neck opening when slightly stretched, sewing in place as you go, beginning at the back neck.
FINISHING
-Weave in all remaining ends.
-Steam block lightly as needed.
And that’s it, my love. You did it! You crocheted a sweater. I’m so proud of you and would love to see your amazing progress. Be sure to tag #RochesterPullover and #TLYCMakers on Instagram and brag a little more in the TLYCMakers Facebook group.
Special thanks to my friends at Lion Brand Yarn for inspiring and sponsoring this project. Click here to see more TLYC x LB collaborations.
Love this ! Thanks for the pattern !
Hi Toni, I love this pattern! I’m pretty accomplished at crocheting. I did a gauge swatch and adjusted my needle to achieve the proper gauge. I made the back edge, but it seemed too large for the body. I frogged, started again and once again I have a wavy edge that seems too large for the body. Any suggestions on what I’m doing wrong.
Thanks a bunch.
Hi Sue, The bottom ribbing is done with a 4mm hook. I’d check to make sure you’re not using the 5mm hook and coming out with a band that’s too long. If it’s still too long with a 4mm hook, try making a smaller size.
Hi Sue.I really love this rochester pullover but i need some clarification please :
I am a beginner at crocheting clothing( this is my 1st attempt) and i am a bit stumped on the instructions regarding the BACK section where it says repeat rows 3-23 which i have and is where i am stuck, Whats next? it only measures 22cm .is that right & are there instructions for completing the top half of pullover.im confusd lol many thanks
Hi Sharlea. Happy to help! You’ll repeat Row 3 until the BACK measures the length necessary for your size. “Repeat Row 3 to 23 (23, 25, 25, 26.5, 26.5)””, meaning repeat Row 3 until your panel measures 23″ for size small, 23″ for size medium, 25″ for size large, and so on. I hope that helps 🙂
Toni
Ohh of course.how silly of me lol , now that youve explained it, it makes total sense.i wasnt looking at the ” after the bracket.thankyou so much .now its time to get back to making it 23inches in length not rows 😂
Hi sorry but i am stuck again..this time on the “neck shaping” section.i dont understand at all.im thinking this is not a beginner friendly project but more for the advanced lol .is there a video or pics to show what to do next? i have marked my 3 markers in place and have no idea where to go from there .thanks😊
Toni guess what ! My husband just read the pattern and showed me what to do .it worked yay.im so excited
please disregard my last comment 😊😊
Hi. Love the pattern. Do you think it is suitable for a men’s sweater? Thank you in advance.
Hi Vaso! I do think this could be appropriate for a men’s sweater. You may have to do some additional math on the sleeves, but, otherwise, it should be fine 🙂
This was my very first attempt at crocheting clothing and it was such a fun and easy to follow pattern! I was able to complete the sweater relatively quickly with no issues and can’t wait to move on to one of your patterns with color variations now 🙂
That’s so awesome to hear! I’m really glad you enjoyed it 🙂
Hi Toni! This is my first time with a project that has two different hook sizes. The 5.0 should be used for the swatch, right?
Thanks!
Correct!
Hi and thank you for this pattern! I was wondering if you would mind explaining the gauge (which I’m thinking would include the general body of the sweater) a bit more? You say: “4″ = 17 sts in (esc + ch 1) pattern x 11 rows”–does that mean the gauge should have 34 chain stitches to start? So, it would be esc, ch 1 for every two chain stitches, correct? Worried I’m overthinking it, but I want to make sure I get the gauge correct first!
Hi! To make your gauge swatch, I’d recommend that you start with foundation single crochet stitches and make 35 of them, then work 16 rows. For the gauge, it’s 17 stitches, which includes the chain stitches and the extended single crochet stitches. So it is, in fact, 17 (since the chains count as stitches). When making your gauge swatch, you want to make a sample that is larger than the given gauge and measure within the sample, not from edge to edge. This will give you a more accurate gauge. I hope that helped. You’re welcome to email me anytime if I can help further – [email protected].
Hi Toni,
Can you please explain what you mean by work 16rows? Do you mean work 16rows of the
pattern from Row 3 of the body section?
Thanks!
Able
Hi! Happy to help. I want to make sure I’m answering your questions properly. Would you mind emailing me – [email protected]
This makes sense! Thank you so much!!
Hi I have a question regarding this sweater! I am trying to decide whether to make this sweater or the sedona sweater. I love the neckline on this sweater much better, but want to cross stitch a pattern on the front. Would you recommend doing the sedona for the ease of cross stitching or can that be done on this sweater too? Thank you!
Hi! Great question. The Sedona will be much easier to cross stitch on. You can easily add the collar from the Rochester Pullover onto the Sedona Sweater.
Hi Toni,
I’m attempting this super beautiful sweater as my first large crochet project (have only done stuffed animals so far. Do you recommend doing a gauge swatch even if I use the exact same yarn and hooks that you suggest?
Thanks!
Hi! I absolutely do recommend a gauge swatch, as you may crochet tighter or looser than I do. That will make a difference when crocheting your sweater
Thanks Toni!
I ended up with 20 stitches and 14 rows (as opposed to 17/11). What would you recommend? Use a larger hook (5.5? 6?) or just make a size M?
Thanks for your help!
Mylène
Hi Toni! I found you last night on youtube – THANK YOU for your video on foundation chains – Yours was the only explanation and demonstration that made sense to me! About this sweater, could this be shaped a bit in the waist easily for a newbie? Thanks tons, Michelle
Hi! Yes, you can easily add increases and decreases in this pattern 🙂
Hi – Can you please explain this direction….FRONT
Work as for BACK until 8 rows remain.
I don’t understand the ‘until 8 rows remain’…
Thank you
Hi! You’ll count the number of rows you put on the front, then subtract 8. Work your BACK up to that amount, then return to the remaining instructions for the BACK.
Hi Toni!
I have a question about the neck shaping: When I start the right neck shaping, I end up with two of the identical looking rows (the ones with the little braid showing) next to each other (the last full row and the 1st partial row). Is there any way to avoid this, or is that just natural?
Many thanks!
Mylène
Hi Toni, I’m not quite sure I understand the ch7 on Row 1 of the Collar…thanking you in advance for your information
Hi! The collar of this sweater is made from a long strand of ribbing that is then sewed onto the sweater. You’ll make a slipknot and place that loop on your hook. Chain 7, then sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. Work in sc blo until your strand of ribbing is long enough to sew around the opening of your sweater. Hope that helps 🙂
Hi Toni, I was wondering can I substitute Red heart Super Saver for Lion Brand Touch of Alpaca?
I think RHSS is a bit thicker than touch of alpaca, so keep an eye on your tension. And you’ll likely want to steam block your finished piece to encourage some drape 🙂
Hi Toni
Neck shaping understanding? I’ve worked out it’s the 17th and 32nd esc not rows, so that cleared up that.. so you work from edge to the 17th and work 8 remaining rows and then do the same from 32nd marker?? Or is that way off.?
Thanks
You got it! The neck shaping is mirrored on the other side.
Hi Toni,
How do you recommend sewing the collar to the sweater? With the tapestry needle or do you actually crochet it to the body as you go?
Thanks!
Hi! I seam the collar to the sweater with a tapestry needle, but you can certainly connect it with crochet as you go 🙂
How long, in inches, should the sleeves be? (I just completed one sleeve and it looks way too short!)
Hi! Depending on the size you’re making, your sleeves should be between 15.5″ and 17.5″. Remember that this sweater is made with a drop sleeve, so the sleeve seam will hit your bicep, not your armpit.
How would I go about adding some length to the sleeves? can i just add more Even rows after the 48th? I didn’t do a tension square (I know, I know!!) and now my mistakes are costing me.
Hi Rachael – yes, you can add more length by adding more even rows to the sleeves 🙂
Hi Tony. I’ve completed the pattern up to where it says, “Work as for BACK until 8 rows remain…” This has me stumped. Right now I have a giant rectangle with ribbing at the bottom, measuring 23″ high (size medium). Can you provide more description or help on what is next?
Hi! You can email your pattern questions to [email protected]
Thank you for this pattern, but I’m stuck on the gauge. What does esc + ch 1 mean?
Hi! Esc means extended single crochet, and ch-1 means chain 1. So, when measuring gauge, you’re measuring over the esc + ch-1 pattern.
Thanks for the clarification! I hope to make this soon.
Keep up the good work!