Where to Buy Yarn: How to Shop In Person and Online

There’s a whole world of yarn out there waiting for you. Rows of beautiful colors, intriguing fibers and squishy skeins can make choosing yarn one of the most exciting parts of starting a new crochet project.

The yarn aisle also has a way of making every skein feel like a very good idea. One minute you’re shopping for a simple project, and the next you’re holding three colors, comparing fibers and wondering whether you can justify just one more ball. Been there.

But beautiful yarn isn’t always the right yarn for the project you have in mind. The right choice can make every stitch feel like a dream, while the wrong one can leave you fighting your hook from beginning to end. Thankfully, you don’t need to become a yarn expert before you start shopping. You just need to know what information matters and where to find it.

In this guide, I’ll show you how to read a yarn label, figure out how much you need and shop with confidence at big craft stores, local yarn shops, online retailers and indie dyers. We’ll even cover what to do when the yarn listed in your pattern is unavailable or simply isn’t your style.

How to Read a Yarn Label

Yarn labels pack a lot of useful information into a very small space. Once you know what to look for, you can use them to compare yarns, calculate how much you need and decide whether a skein is right for your project. Most commercially available yarns include the details below, although the layout may vary by brand.

Yarn Brand and Product Name

The largest text on the label is usually the brand name, yarn name or both. In this example, Shine is the yarn line and Knit Picks is the brand shown on the label. Knowing both makes it easier to find the same yarn again in a store or online.

A yarn name may hint at what’s inside, but don’t rely on the name alone. Even if words like cotton, wool or alpaca appear on the front, always check the fiber-content section for the complete blend.

Tip: Tuck the label into your project bag until you’re finished. You’ll have the yarn name, color and dye lot handy if you need to buy more, along with the care instructions for your finished piece.

Yarn Weight

Yarn weight describes the thickness of the strand, not how much the skein weighs. In the Craft Yarn Council system, weights run from Category 0 Lace to Category 7 Jumbo. You’ll often find the category number inside a small yarn-ball symbol on the label.

Here are two important things to remember:

1. The lower the number, the finer the yarn. Category 0 Lace is the thinnest and Category 7 Jumbo is the thickest.
2. Each category covers a range. Two Category 4 yarns may not be exactly the same thickness, so you can’t assume that every yarn within the category is interchangeable.

Yarn weight gives you a helpful starting point, but a successful substitution also depends on the yarn’s yardage, fiber, construction and how closely you can match the pattern’s gauge. Keep scrolling and I’ll show you how to compare yarns before making a swap.

Color

Most yarn labels include a color name, color number or both. Some names are straightforward, while others are delightfully creative and may not tell you much about the actual shade.

Write down or photograph both the yarn name and color information before discarding the label. That will give you the best chance of finding the same shade if you need more later.

Dye Lot Number

A dye lot number identifies the batch in which a yarn was colored. Skeins from different batches can have subtle differences in shade, even when the yarn name and color number match.

When buying yarn for a sweater, blanket or another large project, check that all your skeins have the same dye lot. If you’re ordering online, retailers generally try to fill a single order from one dye lot, but you can contact customer service if you want to confirm.

If matching dye lots aren’t available, alternate between two skeins every one or two rows or rounds. This distributes the color differences throughout the fabric instead of leaving an obvious line where one skein ends and another begins. Alternating skeins can also be helpful with hand-dyed yarn, which may vary even within the same dye lot.

Some yarns are marked “no dye lot.” These are generally made from fibers colored before the yarn is spun and are designed to remain more consistent from batch to batch. Small differences can still happen, so buying enough yarn at once remains the safest choice for a large project.

Yardage and Net Weight

The label tells you both how much the yarn weighs and how much length it contains:

• Net weight is listed in grams and ounces.
• Length is listed in yards and meters.

These numbers are not interchangeable. Two 100g skeins can contain very different amounts of yarn depending on the fiber and thickness, so use the yardage or meterage when figuring out how many skeins you need.

If a pattern gives you a total yardage, divide that number by the yardage in one skein and round up to the next whole skein. It’s always better to have a little yarn left than to run short before the final row.

Gauge and Recommended Hook Size

Gauge tells you how many stitches, and sometimes rows, fit within a specific measurement, usually 4 inches or 10 centimeters. The label pairs that information with a suggested hook-size range.

On the Shine label shown here, the manufacturer recommends a hook between E/3.5mm and 7/4.5mm. Using a hook within that range, you can expect approximately 16 to 20 single crochet stitches across 4 inches. Your results may differ because every crocheter holds the yarn with slightly different tension.

The hook size on a yarn label is only a starting point. If you’re following a pattern, begin with the hook listed in the instructions and make a small practice square called a gauge swatch. If you have too many stitches within 4 inches, try a larger hook. If you have too few, try a smaller one.

Gauge matters most when the finished measurements need to be precise, especially for sweaters, cardigans, hats and other fitted pieces. Blankets and scarves may allow more flexibility, although a different gauge can still change their finished size and the amount of yarn required.

Fiber Content

Fiber content tells you what the yarn is made of. Most fibers fall into three broad groups:

• Animal fibers, including wool, alpaca and cashmere, are often warm, breathable and elastic. They may require special care, cost more or irritate sensitive skin.
• Plant fibers, including cotton and linen, are generally breathable and absorbent. They tend to have less stretch and can create a heavier fabric.
• Synthetic fibers, including acrylic, nylon and polyester, are often affordable, widely available and easy to care for. Quality varies, some synthetics may pill and they can melt when exposed to high heat.

You’ll also find plenty of blended yarns that combine fibers to balance their characteristics. A cotton-acrylic blend, for example, may offer some of cotton’s breathability with additional softness and easier care.

Read the full fiber content carefully, especially if you or the recipient has a known allergy or sensitivity. A yarn can contain a small percentage of wool or another animal fiber even when that ingredient isn’t featured prominently on the front. You can learn more in my guide to 11 common yarn fiber types.

Care Instructions

Before bringing a yarn home, consider whether its care requirements make sense for the finished project. A hand-wash-only yarn might be perfectly reasonable for a treasured shawl but less practical for a baby blanket or everyday kitchen towel.

Care information may be written out or shown using universal laundry symbols. The Craft Yarn Council’s care-symbol guide explains how to wash, dry, iron and professionally clean the finished fabric.

Follow the instructions on the yarn label to help your project look its best. If you’re giving the finished piece as a gift, include a photo of the label or a small care card so the recipient knows exactly how to wash it.

Where to Buy Yarn

Once you know how to read a yarn label, shopping becomes part research and part treasure hunt. Yarn turns up in more places than you might expect, from familiar craft-store aisles to tiny dye studios creating colors you won’t find anywhere else.

There is no single best place to buy yarn. The right choice depends on your budget, the project you’re making, how quickly you need the yarn and whether you want to touch it before committing. Shop around when you can. You might save a few dollars or stumble across a yarnicorn, that perfect and completely unexpected skein you suddenly cannot leave behind.

Here are some of the best places to begin your search.

// Big Craft and Retail Stores

Large craft and retail chains are often the easiest places to find yarn, especially when you’re just starting out. In the United States, stores such as Michaels and Walmart, along with some regional retailers, carry familiar brands at accessible prices.

These stores are especially useful when you need affordable yarn in basic fibers, popular weights and a wide range of solid colors. You’ll commonly find brands such as Red Heart, Lion Brand, Bernat, Caron and Lily Sugar ’n Cream. Michaels also carries its Loops & Threads line and now offers Big Twist yarn.

After JOANN closed its stores in 2025, Michaels acquired JOANN’s intellectual property and private-label brands, including Big Twist. The brand is now available from Michaels both in stores and online.

Inventory can vary considerably by location, and seasonal yarns may disappear quickly. If you find the right yarn for a large project, buy the full amount at once and check that the dye lots match.

// Local Yarn Shops

A local yarn shop, often shortened to LYS, is usually an independently owned store with a carefully selected collection of yarn, tools and patterns. No two shops are exactly alike, which is part of the fun.

The biggest advantage of shopping at an LYS is the personal guidance. Staff can help you compare fibers, find a substitute, choose colors or determine how much yarn you need. Many shops also offer classes, social stitching events, trunk shows and yarn-winding services. Some carry locally dyed yarns or specialty fibers that are difficult to find at larger stores.

Local shops may have smaller inventories and more premium price points, but you’re paying for more than the skein. You’re also gaining access to knowledge, community and a thoughtfully chosen selection.

Search “yarn shops near me” or check Google Maps to find one nearby. And don’t forget to look for yarn shops when you travel. A skein from a favorite trip makes a pretty wonderful souvenir.

// Online Multi-Brand Yarn Retailers

Multi-brand retailers allow you to compare yarn from several companies in one place. Popular options include LoveCrafts, Amazon and WEBS at Yarn.com.

These sites are useful when you want to filter by weight, fiber, color, price or availability. They may also have the larger quantities or full color ranges that your local stores don’t carry.

The tradeoff is that you can’t touch the yarn or see its true color before ordering. Read the full product description, check customer photos when available and review the return policy before buying. On marketplaces such as Amazon, confirm whether the listing is for one skein or a multipack and check who is actually selling and shipping the yarn.

If dye lots matter, place the entire order at once. You can also contact the retailer before ordering to ask whether your skeins can be pulled from the same lot.

// Shop Directly from Yarn Brands

If you already know which brand or yarn you want, consider shopping directly from the company. Crochet.com, Lion Brand and Purl Soho all sell yarn through their own websites.

Brand websites often carry the widest color selection, exclusive yarns, kits, pattern inspiration and new releases before they appear elsewhere. They may also offer bundles, loyalty programs, email discounts or clearance pricing.

Buying directly is not automatically the least expensive option, so compare the yarn price, shipping cost and delivery time before checking out.

// Indie Yarn Dyers

Independent yarn dyers, often called indie dyers, develop their own colorways and dye yarn in limited quantities. Some are one-person businesses, while others have grown into larger studios with employees, wholesale accounts and brick-and-mortar shops.

Indie-dyed yarn gives you access to saturated tonals, playful speckles, unexpected color combinations and specialty fiber blends you may not see from larger brands. Because it is produced in limited quantities, availability may be unpredictable and colors can vary slightly from skein to skein.

Indie yarn usually costs more because the price reflects the materials, time, artistry and hands-on work behind every skein. Pay attention to whether a listing is ready to ship or available for preorder, and buy the full quantity needed for your project whenever possible.

Some of my favorites include Nicole of Hue Loco, Ashley of Montana Crochet and Ashleigh of Sewrella Yarn. If you’re curious about hand-dyed yarn but aren’t ready to spend $30 or more on every skein, Sewrella’s Home collection is a more approachable place to begin, with 100g skeins currently priced around $20.

// Secondhand, Reclaimed and Free Yarn

Brand-new yarn isn’t your only option. Secondhand and reclaimed yarn can be affordable, sustainable and surprisingly special, especially if you enjoy the thrill of the hunt.

Try looking at:

• Thrift stores, estate sales, garage sales and flea markets
• Creative-reuse stores and craft-supply swaps
• Facebook Marketplace, Buy Nothing groups and local maker groups
• Destash listings from other crocheters
• Yarn swaps hosted by local shops or crochet groups
• Unfinished projects that can be carefully unraveled
• Old T-shirts that can be turned into T-shirt yarn

Inspect secondhand yarn before bringing it into your stash. Check for moisture, mildew, smoke, strong fragrances or signs of pests. If the fiber content is unknown, treat it gently and avoid using it for anyone with allergies or sensitivities.

// Before You Check Out

No matter where you shop, take a moment to check a few details before buying:

• Bring the pattern or save a screenshot of its yarn requirements.
• Compare the yarn weight, fiber content and total yardage with what the pattern recommends.
• Calculate the price by yard or meter instead of comparing skein prices alone.
• Buy all the yarn needed for a large project at the same time.
• Check that the dye lots match whenever the yarn has a lot number.
• Review shipping costs, delivery estimates and return policies for online orders.
• Remember that colors can look different from one screen to another.

A little planning helps you leave the store, or close that browser tab, with yarn you’re genuinely excited to use instead of another mystery skein destined to live at the bottom of your stash.

How to Substitute Yarn in a Crochet Pattern

Sometimes the yarn listed in a pattern is discontinued, unavailable in your area, outside your budget or simply not what you want to use. Whatever the reason, finding a substitute involves more than choosing another skein with the same weight number.

A good substitute should help you create a finished project with a similar size, texture, drape and overall feel. You can narrow down your options by comparing the labels, but a gauge swatch is the only way to know how a yarn will behave in your hands.

Step 1: Gather the Original Yarn’s Details

Start with the yarn recommended in the pattern. Look for:

• Yarn-weight category
• Yardage or meterage
• Net weight in grams or ounces
• Fiber content
• Texture and construction
• Gauge listed in the pattern

For this example, let’s use Cascade 220 Superwash Merino. It is a smooth, plied yarn made from 100% superwash merino wool, with 220 yards per 100g skein.

Step 2: Compare Potential Substitutes

Begin with yarns in the same weight category, then compare the yardage at the same net weight. You can’t reliably compare two skeins by yardage alone if one weighs 50g and the other weighs 100g.

Swish Worsted, for example, contains 110 yards in a 50g ball. Multiply both numbers by two and you get 220 yards per 100g, which matches Cascade 220 Superwash Merino. Both yarns are also smooth, plied and made from 100% superwash merino wool, making Swish a promising substitute on paper.

When the fibers and construction are similar, staying within about 20% of the original yardage per equal weight can help you narrow your options. Treat that range as a starting point, not a guarantee. Cotton, wool, alpaca, blown yarn and other constructions can have very different densities and behave differently even when the numbers appear similar.

Step 3: Make and Wash a Gauge Swatch

Before buying enough yarn for the entire project, make a small sample using the stitch pattern and hook recommended in the instructions. Measure your gauge, then wash and dry the swatch the same way you plan to care for the finished piece.

If your stitch count matches the pattern and you like the fabric’s feel and drape, you’ve likely found a good substitute. If matching the gauge creates fabric that feels too stiff, too loose or completely different from what you expected, try another yarn.

Step 4: Calculate How Much Yarn You Need

Use the pattern’s total yardage, not its number of skeins, to determine how much substitute yarn to buy.

If the pattern calls for four 220-yard skeins of Cascade 220 Superwash Merino:

220 yards × 4 skeins = 880 total yards

Swish Worsted contains 110 yards per ball:

880 yards ÷ 110 yards = 8 balls

You would need at least eight balls of Swish Worsted. Always round up when your calculation results in a partial ball. For a large or fitted project, you may also want one extra ball as insurance, especially when matching dye lots could be difficult later.

Shortcut: Try YarnSub.com

YarnSub.com compares yarn characteristics and suggests possible replacements. Results include a side-by-side look at how closely the fiber, gauge, texture and other features match.

YarnSub doesn’t include every yarn available, and its suggestions still need to be swatched, but it can save you considerable time when you aren’t sure where to begin.

---

Yarn Shopping and Substitution FAQs

What are your best tips for buying yarn?

Whenever possible, shop with a project in mind. Bring the pattern or save a screenshot of its yarn requirements, then check the weight, fiber, yardage and care instructions before buying.

Purchase enough yarn for the entire project at once, confirm that the dye lots match and compare the price per yard rather than the price per skein. If you’re shopping just for fun, give yourself one guideline, such as a particular weight, fiber or color palette, so you bring home something you’re more likely to use.

Signing up for your favorite yarn shops’ email lists can also give you early notice of sales, coupons and new releases.

Where can I buy good-quality yarn?

Good-quality yarn can come from big craft stores, local yarn shops, online retailers and independent dyers. A higher price doesn’t automatically make one yarn better than another. Quality also means choosing a yarn that suits your project, feels comfortable in your hands and will hold up to its intended use.

For affordable everyday yarn, start with a big craft store or direct-from-brand website. For personal guidance and specialty fibers, visit a local yarn shop. If you’re looking for unusual colors or a special skein, explore independent dyers.

What is the best yarn for crochet beginners?

Look for a smooth, plied Category 3 DK or Category 4 worsted-weight yarn in a light or medium solid color. An affordable acrylic, cotton, wool or blend can all work well. The most important thing is that you can comfortably hold the yarn and clearly see your stitches.

Use the hook-size recommendation on the yarn label as your starting point when practicing. You can find more help in my guide to the best yarns for crochet beginners.

What is the best place to buy yarn online?

The best retailer depends on what you’re looking for. Crochet.com and Lion Brand offer accessible yarns, frequent promotions and plenty of project inspiration. LoveCrafts and WEBS at Yarn.com carry yarn from many brands, while Purl Soho is known for premium fibers and a carefully curated palette.

Independent dyers are wonderful when you want small-batch colorways or specialty fibers. Compare selection, shipping costs, return policies and delivery times before deciding where to order.

Can I crochet with any yarn?

Almost any yarn can be crocheted, but not every yarn is equally suited to every project. Fiber, thickness, texture and construction all affect how the finished fabric looks and feels.

A fuzzy yarn may be beautiful in a simple scarf but hide the details of a textured stitch pattern. Acrylic can be practical for a washable blanket but should not be used for potholders or anything exposed to high heat. Choose the yarn based on what you’re making and how the finished item will be used.

How do you substitute yarn in a crochet pattern?

Start by comparing the recommended yarn’s weight category, yardage per equal net weight, fiber content, construction and care requirements. Once you find a promising substitute, make and wash a gauge swatch.

A substitute is successful when you can match the pattern’s gauge while creating fabric with the texture and drape you want. Similar numbers on the labels can help narrow your choices, but the swatch provides the final answer.

Can I use a different yarn weight than the pattern recommends?

You can, but changing the yarn weight is not usually a simple one-for-one swap. It can change the gauge, finished dimensions, drape and total amount of yarn required.

Flexible projects such as scarves and blankets may be easier to adapt. Garments, hats and other fitted pieces require more careful calculations. If you’re a beginner or want the finished project to resemble the pattern sample, stay close to the recommended yarn weight.

How much yarn should I buy?

If you’re following a pattern, find the total yardage required for your size and divide it by the yardage in each skein of your chosen yarn. Always round up to the next whole skein and check that the dye lots match.

If you don’t have a project in mind, it’s difficult to estimate how much you’ll eventually need. Consider choosing a general project type before buying so you don’t end up with one beautiful skein when the project you love requires five.

Can unused yarn be returned?

Return policies vary by retailer. Most stores require yarn to be unused, unwound and accompanied by its original label and receipt. Wound hanks, clearance yarn and final-sale purchases may not be returnable.

Check the policy before buying extra yarn, especially for a large or expensive project. When returns are allowed, keeping one additional skein on hand can be inexpensive insurance against running short.