There is a wonderland of yarn out there waiting for you. But how do you know which yarn is best for your upcoming crochet project or where to get that yarn? Understanding how to read yarn labels and how to buy yarn can go a long way in getting the right yarn on your crochet hook. Learn how to read yarn labels, specifically for crocheters, and where to buy the best yarns available.
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Yarn labels are designed by yarn companies to give you the information you need to pick the right yarn for your project or stash. There’s a lot of information on those labels, but I’ll break it all down here for you. You can expect to see *most* of this information on commercially available yarns.
Yarn Name
The most prominent text on a label is likely to be the company name and/or the yarn name. In this case, the yarn is called Shine and the company is Knit Picks/ WeCrochet. This helps to easily identify the yarn in the store or on your shelf. Yarn names will sometimes make mention of the fiber content (for example “Touch of Alpaca” from Lion Brand), but it’s best to actually check the fiber content on the label instead of going with the name.
Yarn Weight
Yarn weight refers to the thinness or thickness of a yarn. Weights are categorized by a name (lace, superfine, sport, etc.) with a corresponding number (category 0, 1, 2, etc.). The Craft Yarn Council has a handy guide in case you need to reference what the weights mean and the recommended hooks for each yarn weight.
Here are two important things to remember about yarn weight:
- The lower the number, the finer or thinner the yarn, ranging from 0 – Lace weight to 7 – Jumbo weight.
- Individul yarn weights include a range of sizes. Not all category 4 – Worsted weight yarns are the same and you can’t automaticcally swap out one yarn for another in the same category. Keep scrolling for tips on substituting yarns in your patterns.
Yarn weights are a guide to put you on the right track, but you’ll want to dive deeper into the gauge of a particular yarn to really determine if is it is a right fit for your project. Projects like blankets and washcloths give you some leeway with gauge. But wearables like tops and cardigans require a more precise gauge to achieve the correct fit.
Color
Most commercially available yarns will list the color in text AND in number on the label. The text is mainly for the consumer (you and I) and the color number is used more by those within the industry (suppliers, distributors, and sellers). Yarn names can be straightforward like this label (the yarn is called Cream, and it is, indeed, cream), or more whimsical and romantic.
Dye Lot Number
While we’re on the subject of colors, let’s drill down a bit and talk about dye lot numbers. Dye lot numbers signify the batch of yarn that your ball came from. Matching lot numbers between skeins ensures that the color will be consistent throughout your project. Yarn of the same color can be different shades between lots, so try your best to get plenty of the lot you need when working on big projects like sweaters and blankets.
If you can’t get the same lot for your big projects, try alternating skeins throughout the project. Change color between skeins every row or every 2 rows. This will make the subtle differences between skeins a little less obvious.
There are yarns that claim to have no lot, meaning that the company has found a way to keep yarn shades consistent from batch to batch. I haven’t tested this myself, but I’m wary to believe that there is no difference between yarns that were dyed years apart. This is a gray area in the yarny world, so keep your wits about yourself when mixing dye lots or using yarns with no dye lot.
Amount (aka Yardage)
This area signifies the amount of yarn in the individual skein or ball. On this particular label, you will find the yards and grams of the skein. You can use this information to ensure that you purchase enough of the yarn you need for the project you’re planning to make. This label shows length in imperial measures and weight in metric, but most commercial labels will offer both measurements in both imperial and metric.
Gauge and Crochet Hook Recommendation
If you’ve ever brought up gauge to a crocheter, you likely got a few eye rolls and a deep sigh. Gauge can be a tricky concept to wrap your head around, but it really is quite simple and makes a huge difference to nearly any crochet project.
The boxed area in the photo above is saying the following: “Knit Picks recommends a hook of any size between an E (3.5mm) and a 7 (4.5mm) and you’ll get 16-20 single crochet stitches in a 4″ section of fabric using a hook in that range.”
Gauge refers to the number of stitches within a given measurement (usually 4 inches) using a particular hook. The information on gauge from the yarn label is just a suggestion, as every crocheter’s tension (how tight or loosely you crochet) is a little different. Consider making your own gauge swatch for whatever project you’re currently working on.
The recommended hook sizes on the label are just that – recommendations. This information assumes you want to make crochet fabric of medium density worked in basic stitches. But the hook you actually use will depend on your project and your individual tension. When in doubt, start with the recommended hook size and adjust up or down based on the fabric it creates.
Fiber Content
Fiber content refers to what the yarn is actually made of. Fibers fall into 3 main categories:
- Animal fibers – wool, alpaca, cashmere, etc. Benefits: warm, elastic, breathable. Disadvantages: can be irritating to the skin, cost prohibitive, tough to find in big box stores.
- Plant fibers – cotton, bamboo, linen, etc. Benefits: moisture-wicking, breathable, sustainable. Disadvantages: heavier fibers, inelastic, color can fade.
- Synthetic fibers – acrylic, nylon, polyester, etc. Benefits: affordable, accessible, easy-care. Disadvantages: environmental impacts, pilling issues, wide variation in quality.
One yarn store may have dozens of yarns with different fiber contents, so pay close attention to the label, especially if you have allergies to any of the fibers present. When in doubt, Google it.
Care Instructions
Ensure that your finished piece will stand the test of time by following the care instructions on the label. If you’re not familiar with care symbols, try this handy chart. This information can also help you determine how to block your finished piece.
Where to Buy Yarn
There are a plethora of places to purchase yarn both in-person and online. It pays to shop around, not only to save a few dollars, but you might stumble upon a yarnicorn (which is a yarn that is just so perfect and unexpected that you have to have it!).
Now that you know what information is offered on a yarn label, here are some suggestions for your next place to shop for yarn:
// Big Box Store
Big box stores are the common chain stores that most makers know about. Here in the U.S., we have JOANN, Michaels, WalMart, and some grocery stores like Meijer, as well as Dollar Tree and Target, both of which just started carrying their own labels of yarn. Big box stores are the best places to find popular yarns at low prices. Labels like Red Heart Super Saver, Lily Sugar & Creme, and Caron Simply Soft are easy to find at these stores. Dedicated craft stores like JOANN and Michaels are constantly updating their yarn selection and bringing in seasonal products.
// Local Yarn Store
Local yarn stores (also know as LYSs) are in-person shops often owned by an individual or small group. These shops offer a personal touch to makers of every skill level. Crocheters can look forward to classes and special events along with a one-of-a-kind shopping experience. Some (really, most) LYSs also have an online retail presence.
Staff at your LYS make decisions about the yarns they carry, the setup of the store, and their calendar of events. Because of this, every shop will offer a different adventure. The best way to find your LYS(s) is to do a quick Google search of “yarn stores near me”. And don’t forget to search for LYSs when on business trips and vacations.
// Online via Distributors
Yarn distributors are online sites that sell yarns but don’t necessarily make the yarns. Some examples would be LoveCrafts, Amazon, and Webs. The benefit of these sites is that you can search a wide variety of yarns in one place, often filtering results by the exact criteria you need. They’re also a great place to look if your in-person stores don’t have the quantity or colors of certain yarns that you’re looking for.
// Online via Direct Sales
Unlike yarn distributors, direct sales companies mainly focus on selling their own branded yarns (while some will also sell yarn from other companies). These are companies like WeCrochet, Lion Brand, and Purl Soho. It’s a good idea to buy direct if you know the exact yarn you are looking for, as these companies often offer great deals when compared to purchasing their yarns elsewhere.
// Online via Independent Dyers
There’s a major trend of “discovering” and supporting independent dyers in the crochet world and I am so excited about it. Independent dye brands, or “indie” dyers, are typically made up of 1 person or a small group that dye yarn and sell it directly to consumers, distributors, and/or yarn shops. The definition of an indie dyer is pretty fluid, as many are branching into having larger teams, brick & mortar stores, and even selling exclusively to distributors. The common thread of an indie dyer is the lack of corporate backing. Some of my favorite indie dyers are Jake of Kenyarn, Ashley of Montana Crochet, and Laverne of BzyPeach (who specializes in plant fibers!).
// Other Ways to Acquire Yarn
While there are several ways to buy brand new yarn both online and in-person, a resourceful maker who loves a challenge might be interested in these options. Some of these options may result in buying/acquiring yarn second-hand, so be sure to clean the yarn before using or gifting.
- Garage sales and flea markets.
- Make your own (t-shirt yarn, sari yarn).
- Online craft groups. Try Facebook or local organizations.
- Estate sales.
- Upcycle old projects or store-bought clothing.
A Quick & Dirty Guide to Yarn Substitutions
If you’re diving into a new pattern or project but you can’t or don’t want to use the yarn recommended, you’ll have to make a substitution. When substituting yarns in a pattern, you’re looking to match not only the size of the finished piece but often the texture and drape of the finished fabric as well.
The most accurate way to substitute yarn in a pattern is to get a skein of the potential substitute, make a gauge swatch, and compare it to the gauge in the pattern. While this method is preferred, it can be a costly and time-consuming experiment. Here’s a simple method for finding a reasonable yarn substitute for crochet projects without spending time and money upfront.
Step 1: Get the Specs from the Original yarn
Find the yardage and fiber content from the original yarn. You can often find the fiber content and yardage of the original yarn on the label, in the pattern itself, or from a quick Google search.
For this example, let’s say the original yarn is Cascade 220 Superwash, which is a 100% superwash merino wool. This ball has 220 yards per 100 grams.
Step 2: Find a Yarn with Similar Specs
Search for yarns that come close to the original fiber content and yardage. Finding a yarn with similar yardage is the main priority. Similar yardage suggests that you’ll achieve a similar gauge and be close in the total yardage used. I try to stay within a +/-20% range with matching yardage. Matching the fiber content goes a long way in ensuring the texture and drape of the final piece will be similar, but you can go off script here.
The yarn I am considering for a substitute is a yarn from my stash called K+C Element, which is a cotton and acrylic blend with 204 yards per 100 grams. My +/-20% margin of yardage is 44 yards (Cascade 220 has 220 yards; 20% of 220 = 44 yards). 204 yards per 100 grams falls within my 20% margin, so this yarn is a good choice in terms of yardage. I know from the label that my substitute has a different fiber content so the fabric may perform differently, but that is ok, as my first priority is using yarn from my stash.
Step 3: Figure Out How Much Yarn You Need
Calculate how much of the substitute yarn I need to complete the pattern. Now that we’ve found a suitable substitute, we’ll need to figure out how much of the new yarn we need to complete our pattern. If you have a pattern, it should list the exact yardage used. Try your best to match that yardage and pick up 1 extra ball of your substitute yarn just to be safe.
If your pattern does not list yardage and instead says something like “4 skeins Cascade 220 Superwash”, start by calculating that amount. 220 yards x 4 skeins = 880 total yards. 880 yards / 102 yards per 50g ball of K+C Element = 8.62 skeins, which we’ll round up to 9 skeins. I’d purchase 10, again, just to be safe.
Plan B: YarnSub.com
When all else fails and you can’t seem to find a reasonable sub for your yarn, try YarnSub.com. Yarn Sub is a database of over 10,000 yarns that tracks the features of yarns to suggest reasonable substitutes with the click of a mouse.
Suggestions on YarnSub.com are rated as being an excellent match or a good match, and a comparison of the two yarns is listed so you can make an informed decision. Visit YarnSub.com and test different yarns you typically use to see what substitutes are suggested. NOTE: Yarn Sub does not list every single yarn commercially available, but it’s a great place to start.
Yarn Labels, Buying, and Substitutions Q&A
What are some tips on how to buy yarn?
While it’s fun to browse yarn, approach the practice with some kind of plan. Try to purchase yarns for a specific project if you can. If you’re on a for-fun trip to the yarn aisle, narrow down your preferences by color, fiber, weight, or some other criteria to ensure that you don’t walk out of the store with yarn you’ll never actually use. Oh, and sign up for yarn company email lists so you can get alerted for coupons and sales.
Where can I buy good-quality yarn?
With easy access to nearly every website that sells yarn, you don’t have to go far to find good quality. It really depends on what quality means to you. If quality yarn means a good bargain, try big box stores or online distributors. If quality means local or hand-dyed yarn, try your local yarn store or find dyers via social media.
What is the best yarn for crochet beginners?
The best yarn for crochet beginners is a category 3 – DK or 4 – worsted weight yarn in a solid color. I’d recommend merino wool, cotton, or acrylic in a sage green, which tends to be very easy on the eyes. Start with a 5mm crochet hook to learn the basics, then experiment with different yarn weights, fibers, and colors.
What is the best place to buy yarn online?
My favorite places to buy yarn online are WeCrochet, Lion Brand, Purl Soho, WeAreKnitters (use code MGMRRIK8G at checkout for $12 off), and indie dyers. Each site offers something different, from luxury to value to variety. The best place to buy yarn online is very subjective, considering that we all have different motivations when shopping. Take the time to shop around if you can, and don’t be afraid to get a skein or 2 of a yarn you’ve never tried before.
Can I crochet with any yarn?
100% absolutely yes! The idea of “crochet yarn” was developed as a marketing tactic by a knit-focused industry. Beginner crocheters are often steered toward big-name acrylic and cotton yarns from big box companies while knitters are encouraged to indulge in the luxurious side of yarn crafts very early on. As a crocheter with decades of experience under my belt, I can confidently say that we can crochet with anything. Some yarns are more suited to one craft over the other, but, if you can buy it, you can use it.
How do you substitute yarn in crochet?
First, see what yarn is recommended in the pattern. Then find a yarn with similar yardage within +/-20%. Try your best to match the fiber content as well.
Can I crochet with a different yarn weight than what is recommended in the pattern?
Yarn weights indicate how thick a single strand of yarn is. Different weights generally mean different yardage. When substituting yarn, try to find a yarn with similar yardage, even if that means going into a different yarn weight. But, generally, you cannot swap one yarn weight for another without having to make many other changes (hook size, tension, size of the finished project, etc.).
Great information, Toni. Especially on yarn substitution. Thanks so much.
If I want to try a yarn but I have no idea what I will make, how many skeins or how many yards do I buy?
Hi Judy – that’s totally up to you and how often you buy yarn and what your storage looks like. When I find a yarn I really like, I either try to find a pattern, or I get at least 3 skeins so I can make a shawl. Maybe decide what your go-to project type is and make sure you always have enough yarn to make that thing.
Hi Toni, I made a blanket with different types of yarn, but with same color. Now after reading this, my blanket may be a terrible pretty mess. It may shrink and stretch and in other areas. LOL!
Hi Toni! I have been getting your emails for the crochet academy but not seeing the live shows. I’m afraid that I will miss the events when we actually start crocheting together. What do I do?🤦♀️
There’ll be mainly blog posts here, whereas the videos Toni will share are going to be limited to few videos per week. Not everyday is a live/video content, crochet academy is mainly based on the blog posts.
Hey! These first couple of days have been blog posts only. I think tomorrow is a blog post and Thursday and Friday are videos. There is a schedule she sent out at one time…maybe in the intro email she sent us? I know I saw one at some point though. (I don’t work for Toni but wanted to help you.)
Hi Dawn,
So far there are YouTube videos to be shown on Thursday and Friday per Toni’s lesson calendar.
Dawn – The content for the Crochet Academy is provided primarily via Toni’s blog, and is not a live show. If you click on the “Read the Post” button in the email message, it will take you directly to the content where you can read it. She says that there will be an occasional video, but the Crochet Academy is a “blog event” and is more of a read-along. I hope this helps!
Great information Toni! I am absorbing a lot of information that I was not aware of. I appreciate your decision to develop the “Crochet Academy”!
Great info on yarn Toni! Thank you!
Would you please explain how to use double strands to achieve certain weight?
Hi! Thanks for the suggestion. I talk about doubling yarns in THIS YouTube video.
Thanks
I once used Baby Sport yarn (3) in place of worsted weight (4). I didn’t realize how great the difference was between the two. Now I can use the info in this post to adjust my selection and I will be making a gauge swatch to get an idea of how the yarn weight will affect the size of the finished piece.
Thank you Toni.
You pretty much covered everything. Thank you. It’s definitely worth a reread!!!!
Hello, how should i know yarn weight, if it is not written on the label where i live?
You can check THIS site, which tells you the yardage range for each yarn weight.
Thank you, Toni, for the suggestions for buying yarn outside of the big box stores. I have only visited the Lion Brand website, but will check out the others your suggested, along with some indie dyers!
Thank you really helpful. How would I go about finding alternative yarns where I live in Spain? I’ve checked the brands you mentioned but unfortunately they do not deliver in mainland Europe. I have found that a lot of the patterns are American and the yarns described are not available here. Just some suggestions would be helpful. Thank you
Hi Paul! The advice given to substitute yarns can be used for yarns from different countries. Try using those 3 steps to find suitable alternatives 🙂
Awesome info, Toni! I’ve never bought yarn online because I wasn’t sure if it’d necessarily come from the same dye lot if I buy enough for my whole project. How does that work?
If you have yarn from different dye lots, try working with 2 balls at a time and stripe them. That will help them blend.
So much fabulous and important content here! Thanks for taking the time to share with all of us.
Huge thank you for the yarn substitution formula-🤯. I did plan to sub a yarn to make the cardi for this academy only to realize I already bought something that didn’t work…no worries I am now armed with sub power so off to buy more I go!
Hi Toni. Thank you for this blog and helpful tips, especially on yarn substitution. I did your calculations and am outside (over) the +/-20% range for subbing yarn for a blanket project. Am I wrong to think buying more yarn will make up the difference? Pattern calls for Red Heart Super Saver (7 oz/364 yd; 4 weight). I want to try Premier Everyday DK Anti-Pilling yarn (3.5 oz/273 yd; 3 weight). Would appreciate your opinion on subbing or not.
Hi! The trouble you’re running into is not necessarily a yardage issue but a weight issue. Changing to a DK weight yarn from a worsted weight yarn changes a lot of things. I’d recommend finding a worsted weight yarn that you like for the pattern.
On her page, you will see a bell icon on the top right. If you click that Bell, it will give you options to get notifications for all her posts, stories and lives. Hope this helps.
Dawn. Sorry. I meant her Instagram page.
Yarnicorn! I love it! 🤣
Thanks for all the links; I really appreciate it. I was particularly interested in YarnSub.com. This is so incredibly helpful.
I am have enjoyed your two post. Thank you so much for all your time and effort
in doing this. Can’t wait until tomorrows post. oxoxo
Thank you, Tony, lots of helpful information, wonderful presented! The hook I actually use always have to be down based and I’m always wondering and irritate why they aren’t accurate. Hehe, now it looks like problem is in my and my individual tension.
Something that hamper me much is also when some online stores don’t gives information for washing of the product, even they have it on the labels! This is the first thing I’m looking for when I’m choosing between different brands of same fibers.
Love, love,love the info! I am not a beginner but it is great to review the yarn and substitution options. I absolutely love all the info. Thank you so much for all the ti,e and hard work you have put into this. I can hardly wait for the patterns!!!
Would like to use some stash up and use a sport weight (100g=351yds) for your Omar wrap…. Do you think 700yds will be enough?
Hi! I haven’t tested this pattern in sport weight so I can’t really say. But it would be worth trying to see 🙂
Really enjoy the Crochet Academy. So much information, thank you!
Hi Toni, more great info! I have purchased based on dye lot in person but how can you confirm the skeins you buy online are all from the same dye lot?
Thank you! I am actually printing these posts and creating a notebook for myself so I can reference all of this good info as I need it!!
Great info Toni! Something I always need to remind myself of when browsing for stash yarn is to buy enough of it to actually make something! So often I’ve picked up one or two balls of something (likely on sale) without a plan for what to make, then when I actually find something that would work, I can’t get more 🙁
Wow! Talk about an education! I thought I knew my way around the yarn store but now I might be able to open my own! Thank you for sharing all your knowledge about yarns and where to buy them. I didn’t even know that I had several local yarn stores in my area. I am looking forward to a shopping trip soon. I’m so glad that I signed up for your academy. I can’t wait until tomorrow!
Hi Toni, I am late to signing up, just did tonight and read through-I think everything-but wondering what size hooks I should buy in advance? Also, I only saw one video with you telling us about the course, I hope I am not missing anything else. Thank you, I am super excited!
Hi Lisa! No need to worry – I haven’t suggested purchasing any hooks yet, and there are no videos that you are missing. Any important information for the event will be in these posts 🙂
Hi Toni! I am learning so much already. I’m glad I know more about gauge and why it’s important. I haven’t checked my gauge ever, and now I know it’s important – especially for garments. I haven’t made anything wearable other than a headband and 1 shawl. I’m excited and nervous to try making the cardigan. I’m glad there will be a video for that, if I remember correctly. Thank you so, so much for Crochet Academy!
Very very VERY helpful!!! Thank you for blessing us with your knowledge and expertise!♥️
Once A CMoore was gone, I had to find a new place to buy yarn. michaels was almost always out of stock or not sold in store. I find Joann’s to be a wonderful place to get great yarn. There are always many yarns on sale at affordable prices. I did not know where yarn would be in the stare so I was about to ask the person cutting fabric and looked up and saw mountains of yarn. It is definitely a place for yarnaholics.
This was a great read! Will your lives be posted to Instagram or FB?
Hi! There are not live sessions associated with each day’s content. Just the blog post. If there is any content in addition to the blog post, it will be embedded or linked in the blog post.
Hi Toni, you have certainly packed a lot of information in there!
Thanks.
Hello, when substituting yarn does the 20% yardage range change if you’re going to use metric? If so what is the recommended percentage range for metric?
Hi! No, the 20% yardage does not change when going to metric. Since it’s a percentage and not a length, +/-20% will still apply 🙂
Thanks so much for this post, I also tend to buy an extra ball when substituting because I’m very bad at numbers and don’t trust my maths, so I’ll overcompensate if I’m not sure it’ll be a perfect match. For example, I had to use a different brand for one of the patterns for next months Crochet Along, because no one stocks that particular yarn in Australia and I didn’t want to risk the wait to order a kit from overseas. So I’ve gone with a similar (but not identical) yarn that I can get at one of my local big box stores. It’s really nice and I’m excited to see how it goes.
May I ask where you buy yarn in Aus? I’ve been trying from the States to help guide my friend who is new to knitting and loves chunky yarn, but everything is so expensive! We’re primarily looking for acrylics, not anything fancy, but just nice, fluffy clouds to knit with. Also looking for chunky needles (size 13+ / 9mm+), but the places we’ve found don’t have many options!
Thank you for the section on wool substitution living in the UK and getting hold of some of the yards from the USA can be quite daunting but with this guide I feel more confident now in purchasing wall in the UK to use, loving crochet AcademY
Excellent post! Thank you!
Hey Toni that was an exceptional presentation that provided tons of useful information. Thank you very much; finally finished at 11:30 pm! Taking notes and re-reading certain areas.
Wow, Toni! I am loving this! So much information that I wish I would have known a LONGGGGGG time ago! Thanks again!
Toni, you’re Amazing! Any beginner or experienced crocheter needs this Crochet Academy. I wish I knew about this before now. It will guide my impulse buying of a lot of yarns that I don’t need. Glad to have the knowledge now.
Hi Toni, thank you so much for all the very helpful and interesting informations so far! I’m so excited what else there is to learn.
I have a question. For the Cardigan and the Blanket, you suggest a 10mm hook. Am I right, you recommend the 10mm and not the 6.50mm? Or should the 10 be US-size? I just want to take the “right” one when we get to the CAL. I was slightly confused after all the tables with the weights and the recommended hook sizes.
Yes, YES, I agree with Toni that you should buy an extra skein if you substitute yarns! There is a running gag in my needlework group about how I have many times ended up one skein short and am scrambling to find another. You can always trade the extra one with a friend, or use it on a different project in the future, or save your receipt and return the extra one.
Ty Toni. Especially liked the part about the substitution of yarns. Been a knitter for years and never really thought to much about it.
Love this! Who knew about YarnSub.com Not I!! So so helpful!! I love indie yarn suppliers but have been very happy with all of your sources to include Purl SoHo which might be my favorite! Can I tell you that you are absolutely the queen of my afternoon schedule!Wooohoo! Summer and fiber! Doesn’t get much better and I have 24/7 caregiving responsibilities but this is perfect for keeping my hubs company!!! Thank you!!!Big Hug!
Hi Toni! First of all, thank you so much for what you’re doing. My question is this: when ordering yarn from places like Lion Brand for a project where several skeins of the same color will be purchased, do they take care in making sure the yarn they send will all be from the same dye lot?
Hi Shelley! Great question. Unfortunately, the answer is probably not. These distribution centers are massive. With so much yarn moving around, it’s unlikely they can be that careful. If you get yarns of different dye lots, try striping them. That should make them blend.
Perfect depth of information. Thanks for breaking it down.
Perfect depth of information. Thanks for breaking it down.
You are awesome girl, keep up the great work.
Very good stuff – much more than I learned from my grandmother. I had learned about Dollar Tree – If you all have Ollie’s they will sometimes have buyouts during the fall/winter months. I bought some but had no idea at the time about weight. Going back to the stash to re- organize.
I’m really enjoying the Crochet Academy! Toni you are the best teacher I have ever known! Who knew about all these websites? I sure didn’t! Going back to take notes.
Hi Toni,
Some people say there is a schedule sent to their email. Maybe it’s because I was late signing up but I didn’t get one. Could you send it to me or is it posted on your pages somewhere?
Hi Toni. Thank you for this. I’m a little slow on understanding the math of step two but I think I get it. Great info! Thanks again!
Girl — you put a ton of work into this class and I am just on Day 2! Wow! This is valuable info, charts, links, buy sites, tips, substitutes — WOW! I’m so glad I had subscribed to your YouTube channel in 2020 so I caught the video on this Crochet Academy!
Thank you Toni for Making this and tell us and teaching us that reading label of yarns is really important of how to take care and how to use then. I love the yarns and different sizes and what they meant for to crochet. 🧶🧶🧶
Hi Toni,
I am enjoying reading your blog posts. Great information even for someone who has been crocheting for many years.
I really liked your dye lot tip of switching between the different dye lot skeins. Wish I had known this when knitting a top several years ago. Looking forward to your future posts.
Thank you for these awesome tutorials! I consider myself an advanced beginner but still love learning from others because i just have taught myself most stuff. One question i have that might be something you could answer in a video in the future – when buying yarn from indie-dyers – they usually sell more specialized type yarn. What can i buy and use and what are the washing instructions? I get confused and hesitant to buy anything just because is don’t have familiarity with those types of yarns. Thanks again for all of your work on these posts and videos!!
Hi Beth! Great video suggestion. In the meantime, just know that most indie dyers will put that information in the product description. Those details (what something is made of, how to care for it, etc.) are typically on the ball band. When in doubt, hand wash and lay flat to dry.
Hi Toni,
I’m a mini crafter:-). I love sewing (first passion) and recently I picked up knitting and now crochet after watching your You tube channel (which I have subscribed). It’s a wonder I am not in the hospital in a comma right now LOL!I have purchase so much yarn in the last week I purchased the yarn with specific projects in mind. I love soft, cushy yarn with merino, silk and cashmere in them. I have allergies but love nature yarns. I have skeins, I just love to look at. I hope I’m not the only one with this addiction. I need Yarn Anonymous ant this point. I just bought another truck load and I am going to put myself in a straight jacket so I do not purchase more. I love making but time runs out. I work full time and I spread myself too thin some times. I find I am worn out by the end of the day…mostly mental exhaustion. I typed all this to say, thank you for re-discovering the joys of crocheting and I hope trust the Crocheting Academy will be a great boost to my confidence in the items I have in mind to create. I really mean this as a compliment, thank you for spreading the addiction(love). You have inspired me…I am upgrading into NEW WAY OF BEING! Have a spectacular day. As you can see, I am one big run on sentence LOL!
I am really enjoying the Crochet Academy. Great general tips for fibers, I am learning a lot even as an experienced knitter and excited to become an experienced crocheter!