Issa Mesh Cardigan – a free crochet lace sweater tutorial + pattern
Stuck in between summer and fall? Don’t fret! The Issa Mesh Cardigan is a crochet lace sweater that will keep the late-summer chill away so you can party straight through autumn!
A lightweight mesh crochet cardigan is the perfect final layer over your tanks and tees if you expect a little breeze. Slip it on at the office, when you’re headed to the movies, or pack it on a road trip if the weather is unpredictable. Even beginners can make the lovely Issa Mesh Cardigan using this free crochet pattern + step by step tutorial video.
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Make the Issa Mesh Cardigan!
- FREE PATTERN: Keep scrolling for the FREE version of the Issa Mesh Cardigan
- PRINTABLE PDF: Get a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF version of the Issa Mesh Cardigan from Ravelry or TLYarnCrafts.com
- PROJECT KIT: Customize your Issa Mesh Cardigan project kit from Lion Brand HERE
Crocheting a Sideways Cardigan
There are dozens of ways to crochet a cardigan or top. I’ve made several myself, but I always tend to gravitate toward the sideways construction. The garment is made lengthwise, either from one cuff across to the other, or in multiple panels, either from cuff to back or vice versa. This construction allows for maximum drape in your project while keeping the seaming to a minimum.
I wanted a crochet lace sweater with a v-neck for the Issa Mesh Cardigan, so I started the sideways construction from the cuff, working through the back and making 2 identical panels. The panels are then sewn together, and a structured ribbing is applied to the entire cardigan’s opening and bottom. The final step of adding coordinating buttons makes this piece a staple in your well-curated wardrobe.
The Versatility of Acrylic Yarn
Acrylic yarn tends to get a bad rep these days. But let’s take a moment to highlight its best features:
- Great Value: Acrylic yarn is typically one of the most inexpensive options at your big box and local yarn stores. This means you spend less per yard for a yarn that works well for nearly any type of project.
- Hypoallergenic: Acrylic yarn is soft and doesn’t contain allergens that may irritate some makers like wool, making it a good choice for babies or those with sensitive skin.
- Availability: Acrylic yarn is very easy to find, particularly at big box stores like Joann and Michaels. This is especially great for makers who prefer to shop in person and experience the yarn before adding it to their projects.
- Easy Care: Most acrylic yarns are machine washable and dryable. Some even get softer with wear and laundering.
With so much to love about acrylic yarn, it’s a good time to experiment with the options on the market to see what brands would fit well in your stash.
Lion Brand Color Theory Yarn is the perfect option for the Issa Mesh Cardigan. This crochet lace sweater benefits from the lightness of the yarn, allowing it to be breezy while still maintaining its shape. It’s incredibly soft already, and softens up even more after lightly steam blocking or washing in a garment bag. Color Theory comes in 18 stunning colors that look great on everybody. Why choose between being stylish or comfortable? You can be both!
Is Color Theory your new favorite yarn? Only one way to find out – test it here!!
Make the Issa Mesh Cardigan!
- FREE PATTERN: Keep scrolling for the FREE version of the Issa Mesh Cardigan
- PRINTABLE PDF: Get a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF version of the Issa Mesh Cardigan from Ravelry or TLYarnCrafts.com
- PROJECT KIT: Customize your Issa Mesh Cardigan project kit from Lion Brand HERE
Issa Mesh Cardigan Details
DESCRIPTION
Stuck between seasons? Reach for the stylish and versatile Issa Mesh Cardigan. With its relaxed fit and V-neck shape, you can slip this on when you want to look put-together without sacrificing comfort. If you’ve been nervous about tackling your first crochet sweater, this is the one – I made it special to boost your crochet confidence without overwhelming you.
MATERIALS
- Lion Brand Color Theory yarn, 4-8 skeins, depending on your size (see Sizes below). Sample made in the color Caper. Substitute the DK/worsted weight yarn of your choice. CHECK YOUR GAUGE!
- 6mm and 5mm crochet hooks (try this set!)
- Scissors
- Tapestry needle
- Locking stitch markers
- Four to six 1″ buttons
- Steam blocking supplies
SIZES
All sizes are intended to have an oversized fit – 4-12” positive ease, depending on your size. Size down if you are in-between sizes. Photos show a model with a 34” bust in size XS/S.
- XS/S, intended for bust 28-34”; 4 skeins
- M/L, intended for bust 36-42”; 5 skeins
- XL/2XL, intended for bust 44-50”; 7 skeins
- 3XL/4XL, intended for bust 52-58”; 8 skeins
- 5XL, intended for bust 60-62”; 8 skeins
Use the following chart for specific dimensions of different sections in your cardigan. These measurements are for your final blocked cardigan. All dimensions are in inches.
| XS/S | M/L | XL/2XL | 3XL/4XL | 5XL | |
| Positive Ease | 6-12 | 4-10 | 4-10 | 4-10 | 4-6 |
| Bust Width | 20 | 23 | 27 | 31 | 33 |
| Bust Circumference | 40 | 46 | 54 | 62 | 66 |
| Total Length | 22 | 23 | 25 | 25.5 | 26 |
| Body Length Under Arm | 14.5 | 14.5 | 15 | 14.5 | 13.5 |
| Back Neck Width | 8 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 8 |
| Sleeve Length | 18 | 18 | 17 | 17 | 16 |
| Armhole Circumference | 15 | 17 | 20 | 22 | 25 |
| Center Back Neck to Wrist | 27.5 | 29.5 | 30.5 | 32 | 32 |
DIMENSIONS DEFINITIONS
- Positive Ease – This cardigan will fit oversized and be 4-12” larger than your bust measurement, depending on the size you choose.
- Bust Width – The width of the cardigan across the body when lying flat.
- Bust Circumference – The final circumference of the body of the cardigan.
- Total Length – Length as measured from the top of the ribbing at the back neck to the bottom of the ribbing at the bottom of the cardigan.
- Body Length Under Arms – Length measured from the underarm to the bottom of the ribbing at the bottom of the cardigan.
- Back Neck Width – Measurement across Back between front neck opening.
- Sleeve Length – Length measured from under arm to end of Sleeve.
- Armhole Circumference – The final circumference of the Sleeve (there is no shaping on the sleeve, so the circumference will be consistent throughout).
- Center Back Neck to Wrist – Length of one panel, measured from the beginning of the Sleeve to the last row of the Back.
GAUGE
4” = 16 sts x 7 rows in (dc, ch 1, sk 1) pattern, unblocked
ABBREVIATIONS
BLO = back loop only
Ch = chain
Dc = double crochet
FSC = foundation single crochet
Lp(s) = loop(s)
Rep = repeat
RS – right side
Sc = single crochet
Sk = skip
Sl st = slip stitch
Sp = space
St(s) = stitches
Tch = turning chain
WS = wrong side
NOTES:
- Starting ch-4 counts as first dc + ch-1
- Use 6mm hook for all sections unless otherwise instructed.
Issa Mesh Cardigan Pattern
Ready to make your first crochet lace cardigan? Let’s do it together!
Body Panels (make 2)
SLEEVES
Leaving a 6” tail, FSC (tutorial) 62 (70, 82, 90, 102).
ROUND 1: Ch 4, sk sc at base of ch AND next sc, (dc in next sc, ch 1, sk next sc) across row, sl st in 3rd ch of tch to join in the round, turn. (31 (35, 41, 45, 51) dc)
ROUND 2: Ch 4, sk dc at base of ch AND next ch-sp, (dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp) around, sl st in 3rd ch of tch to join, turn.
Repeat Round 2 to 32 (32, 30, 30, 28) total rows, including FSC row. Proceed to Body.
BODY
From here, the cardigan is worked in Rows.
ROW 1:
- Part 1 – Ch 49 (49, 51, 49, 45), dc in 2nd ch from hook, *(ch 1, sk 1, dc in next st)* to 1 ch before Sleeve.
- Part 2 – Ch 1, sk next ch-sp, dc in next dc on Sleeve, work * to * around sleeve to other side of ch.
- Part 3 – Ch 1, sk last ch-sp of Sleeve, dc in lps at base of the next dc on the ch, work * to * across ch, placing the last dc in the last st of ch, turn. (79 ( 83, 91, 93, 95) dc)
ROW 2: Ch 4, sk dc at base of ch AND next ch-sp, (dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp) across row, dc in last dc, turn.
ROW 3: Ch 4, sk dc at base of ch AND next ch-sp, (dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp) across row, dc in 3rd ch of tch, turn.
Repeat Row 3 to 9 (12, 15, 19, 21) total rows on Body. Proceed to Back.
BACK
Locate the center dc of row and mark with locking st marker.
ROW 1: Ch 4, sk dc at base of ch AND next ch-sp, (dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp) across to marked dc, dc in marked dc, turn. (40 (42, 46, 47, 48) dc). Do not remove marker.
ROW 2: Ch 4, sk dc at base of ch AND next ch-sp, (dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp) across row, dc in 3rd ch of tch, turn.
Repeat Row 2 to 8 rows total (count from marker). Fasten off after last row, leaving a long tail for seaming on one of the panels. Remove marker.
FRONT
Turn panel so the front is facing you. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of the turning ch on the last completed row. See images on Page 7 for clarification.
ROW 1: Place a marker on the 4th dc from the BACK on this row. Ch 4, sk dc at base of ch AND next ch-sp, (dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp) to marked dc, sc in marked dc, turn. (35 (37, 41, 42, 43 dc) + 1 sc). Remove marker.
ROW 2: Lift lp (do not ch), sl st in sc at base of lp, (sl st in next ch-sp, sl st in next dc) 2 times, ch 4, sk dc at base of ch AND next ch-sp, (dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp) across, dc in 3rd ch of tch, turn. (34 (36, 40, 41, 42) dc)
ROWS 3-6: Rep Rows 1-2 two more times (6 rows total), placing marker on the 4th dc from the end of the row in Rows 3 and 5. Fasten off after last row.
Rows 1-2 of FRONT use short rows to shape a deep V-neck in the front of the sweater. The image below shows where to place your marker and the direction of stitching for the first row of the FRONT.
The image below shows how to set up for the first repeat of Row 1 on the FRONT. Notice that we still place a marker, which sets us up for our next short row.
ASSEMBLY
- Turn one panel inside out so you have two mirrored panels.
- Using leftover tail, mattress stitch seam (tutorial) Back rows together.
- Using leftover tail, whip stitch seam row ends of Sleeves together.
- Weave in all ends.
Ribbing
SETUP: With RS facing, join with a sl st in the sp after the Back neck seam. Ch 1, sc in same place as join, sc evenly around cardigan, placing 2 sc around each dc row end, 1 sc in each dc and ch-sp, and (sc, ch 1, sc) in the corners at bottom of cardigan, join with a sl st in the first sc of the round. Fasten off.
BOTTOM RIBBING: With RS facing and 5.5mm hook, join with a sl st in the 2nd sc of the corner of the bottom-left panel. Ch 9, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and each remaining ch, sl st in the sc at the base of the ch and the next sc, turn.
- ROW 1: Sk 2 sl sts, sc BLO across row, turn.
- ROW 2: Ch 1, sc BLO across row, sl st in each of the next 2 sts on cardigan, turn.
Repeat Rows 1-2 for bottom of cardigan, finishing when you reach the first sc in the corner on the bottom-right panel. Fasten off after last row.
FRONT RIBBING: Place markers along the right panel’s front opening to represent where buttons will go. Place one marker at the center of the bottom ribbing, and place 3-5 markers equally across the dc sts before you reach the slope.
- CREATE RIBBING: With RS facing and 5.5mm hook, join with a sl st in the first st of the ribbing on the bottom-right panel. Ch 9. Work in ribbing pattern established in Bottom Ribbing section around the entirety of the cardigan front opening. Fasten off after last row.
- WHEN YOU REACH A MARKER
- RS: Sc 3, ch 2, sk 3 sc, sc 2, sl st in each of the next 2 sts on cardigan, turn
- WS: Sk 2 sl sts, sc BLO 2, 3sc in ch-2 sp, sc BLO 3, turn. Remove marker.
Finishing
STEP 1: Place buttons on left-front ribbing to match up with button holes. Using a length of yarn, affix buttons to cardigan ribbing. Test the placement before tying a double knot to secure the button.
STEP 2: Weave in all remaining ends.
STEP 3: Steam block to final dimensions.
Prefer an ad-free, printable version of this pattern? I got you!
Crocheting your first sweater wasn’t so bad, was it? The sideways construction of the Issa Mesh Cardigan makes it so easy! I can’t wait to make another with yarn from my personal stash.
Before you start that next WIP, be sure to show off your scarf in the TLYC Makers Facebook Group and tag @TLYarnCrafts on Instagram. We are so excited to see your beautiful progress.
More FREE crochet patterns for you:
Still trying to find the free pattern for sizing
Scroll to the bottom third of the blog post for the free version of the pattern 🙂
Hi, Toni,
I’m so excited that I found this pattern–it’s exactly what I was looking for!
I was wondering if you thought that cuffs could be added to these sleeves? Makes it easier if I have to push up my sleeves. Maybe there’s a pattern of yours that I could use for cuffs? Thanks so much!
Hey there, Mary! Yes, you can definitely add cuffs to your Issa Mesh Cardigan 🙂 If you want to see some different cuffs in the TLYC universe, look into the Dina Cardi, Kima Cardi, Maple Sweater, Rochester Pullover, and the Veronica Cardi. Unfortunately, none of these suggestions will be a one-to-one exchange in adding ribbing to the Issa Mesh Cardigan, but they should give you an idea of how to add a few different cuffs! I think adding cuffs would be so cute!
Thanks! I think I can figure it out from the Dina Cardi…I just need the pattern for starting them, and whether I have to decrease the sleeve itself. (I can do it when I’m sewing, just not there yet with crochet). You have great patterns–I’m really glad I found your site. Your aesthetic matches mine so perfectly!
I will say that in the Dina Cardi the ribbing of the cuffs are made before moving onto the sleeves, so you may have to start your Issa with the cuffs before doing your sleeves in the round and figure out the amount of added stitches to get to the positive ease. Additionally, you will have to adjust for the length in sleeve change since you are adding cuffs. I think your cardigan will look great 🙂 And yay for aesthetic twinning!
How can I taper the sleeves? I’m considering the ISSA MESH CARDIGAN pattern as my next make, I may also add cuffs. I’m never comfortable with wide sleeves.
Hey there, Karen 🙂 To taper the sleeves you will have to start smaller and increase along the joins of the sleeves to your liking, as the design is made for loose sleeves. The increase amount will need to add up to the amount of stitches needed for the armhole by the end of the rows suggested for the sleeve. If you choose to also add cuffs, you will have to factor in the length of the cuffs to the length you need to subtract from the sleeve. If you add cuffs, you will need to do the cuffs first, then increase in the stitch pattern of the sleeve, getting the amount of stitches needed for the armhole by the time you get the length of arms you desire. I hope that helps!