How to Read Crochet Patterns for Total Beginners

Many beginner crocheters avoid learning how to read patterns because all those abbreviations, numbers and punctuation marks can look like a completely different language. I once heard a maker ask, “How does anyone even make sense of it all?” And honestly? You’re not wrong!

But here’s the good news: You can learn the language of crochet patterns. In this guide, I’ll show you how written patterns are organized, what all that shorthand means and how to work through the instructions one step at a time. Before long, you’ll feel much more confident picking up a pattern and giving it a try.

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Crochet patterns are everywhere, from books and magazines to designer websites and blogs. Learning how to read them opens up a whole new world of projects you can confidently try. Let’s break down the language of written patterns and the skills that will help everything start to click.

It’s Not Hard, It’s Just New

This little gem comes from one of my fairy yarn mothers, Gaye of @GGMadeIt. Learning to read crochet patterns can feel especially daunting when you’re also learning about yarn, hooks and stitches. Suddenly, you’re being asked to make sense of a page filled with unfamiliar shorthand too. But the hardest part is usually right at the beginning.

My best advice is to go slowly, even slower than you think you need to. Crocheting stitches and interpreting written instructions use different mental muscles, so give your brain time to catch up. Reread a line as many times as you need, write it out in your own words and don’t get discouraged if it takes a while to click. Take your time, give yourself some grace and celebrate every win!

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Watch: How to Read Crochet Patterns

Written patterns make much more sense when you can see someone work through them step by step. In this video, I break down the abbreviations, punctuation and pattern sections you’ll encounter so you can start reading them with confidence.

Parts of a Crochet Pattern

Every designer organizes their patterns a little differently, but most well-written patterns include the same basic sections. Once you understand what each section is telling you, the entire pattern becomes much easier to navigate. We’ll use my Jessie Stash Basket pattern as an example throughout this guide.

// Title

At the beginning of the pattern, you’ll usually find the project title, a short description and the designer’s name, brand or website. Some patterns also include a difficulty level such as Beginner, Easy, Intermediate or Complex. Use that rating as a helpful guide to the techniques you may encounter, not a reason to talk yourself out of trying something new.

// Images

Images show you the overall shape, fit, drape, texture and color placement of the finished project. Some patterns also include close-up or construction photos to help clarify tricky steps. Use them as visual clues while you work.

// Materials

The materials section lists the supplies the designer used to make the sample shown in the pattern.

• Yarn: Look for the yarn brand and name, weight, fiber content, yardage and number of skeins used for each color. You can use the same yarn or choose a comparable substitute using my 3 Step Method for Yarn Substitutions.
• Crochet hook: Hook sizes may be listed using a US letter, US number or metric millimeter measurement. I prefer millimeters because they are universal. The listed hook is a starting point, but you may need a different size to match the designer’s gauge. Learn more in my Crochet Hooks 101 guide.
• Notions: These are any additional supplies needed to complete the project. Common notions include scissors, a tape measure, a tapestry needle and locking stitch markers. Find more in my guide to essential crochet tools and notions.

// Sizes + Measurements

This section tells you the finished measurements of the project after any finishing steps, including blocking. It may be labeled Sizes, Measurements, Dimensions or Sizing Chart.

Garment patterns may include the sample size, recommended ease, finished measurements and the body measurements each size is designed to fit. You may also find a sizing chart or schematic that shows the shape and dimensions of different project pieces.

Ease is the difference between your body measurement and the finished measurement of the garment. Choose your size using the pattern’s measurements and recommended ease, not simply the size you normally buy in a store.

// Gauge

Gauge section of a crochet pattern

Gauge, sometimes called tension, tells you how many stitches and rows should fit within a speGauge section of a crochet pattern

Gauge tells you how many stitches and rows should fit within a specific measurement of crochet fabric. Matching gauge gives you the best chance of reaching the intended size and using approximately the amount of yarn listed in the pattern.

Here’s an example of what you might see:

4″ = 8 rows x 15 sts in double crochet with 4.5mm hook.

This means a 4-inch section of double crochet fabric should contain 15 stitches across and 8 rows vertically.

• If you have too many stitches within 4 inches, try a larger hook.
• If you have too few stitches within 4 inches, try a smaller hook.

Gauge may take a few tries, and that is completely normal. Visit my complete guide to crochet gauge and swatching for step-by-step help.

// Abbreviations + Terms

Abbreviations keep crochet patterns from becoming a zillion pages long. Most patterns include a list of the abbreviations and special terms used in that design. Keep that list nearby and write the instructions out in full whenever it helps you understand them.

Always confirm whether your pattern uses US or UK crochet terminology. The same stitch name can mean something completely different in each system. I am a US designer, so the patterns and terms on my website use US crochet terminology.

The Craft Yarn Council Crochet Abbreviations Master List is an excellent reference, but always check the pattern’s own abbreviation list first.

// Notes

Just before the pattern directions, look for any Special Stitches and Notes you’ll need to review. Special Stitches explain any specific stitch methods used in the design, while Notes may cover construction, project orientation, left-handed adjustments, turning chains, color changes, optional techniques or helpful tutorial links.

You know all those random questions that pop into your head while you’re working? There’s a good chance the designer answered them here, so please don’t skip the Notes!

// Pattern Instructions

Pattern instructions are the row-by-row or round-by-round directions that tell you how to make the project. Look for headings that divide larger projects into manageable sections, such as the Front, Back, Sleeves or Neckline of a sweater.

Work through the pattern one section and one line at a time. Highlight the numbers for your chosen size, check off each row as you complete it and use the headings to keep your place. You do not have to understand the entire pattern at once. You only need to understand the step directly in front of you.

Crochet Punctuation

Crochet patterns use punctuation alongside abbreviations to keep instructions clear and concise. Commas, periods, asterisks, parentheses and brackets each tell you how to move through a line of instructions.

// Commas

Think of a comma as a yield sign. It gives you a place to pause, complete the instruction before it and then move on to the next step.

• Round 2: Ch 1, sc 2, 2sc, turn. Read this as: Chain 1, then single crochet in each of the next 2 stitches, then place 2 single crochet in the next stitch, then turn.

When a line starts to feel overwhelming, take it one comma at a time.

// Periods

A period works like a stop sign. It marks the end of a complete line or set of instructions. Finish everything before the period before moving on.

// Asterisks

Asterisks identify a sequence of stitches that should be repeated. The instructions following the sequence will tell you how many times to repeat it or how far across the row or round to continue.

You may see the repeat written in two ways:

• Row 4: Ch 1, sc 1, *dc 1, sc 1; rep from * across row, turn. Begin the repeat after the asterisk and stop at the semicolon. Repeat that sequence across the row.
• Row 4: Ch 1, sc 1, *dc 1, sc 1*, rep from * to * across row, turn. In this version, the repeated sequence appears between two asterisks.

The formatting is slightly different, but both instructions tell you to repeat the same sequence.

// Parentheses

Parentheses can serve several purposes in a crochet pattern. Look at the information surrounding them to understand how they are being used.

Repeats: Parentheses may hold a sequence of stitches that should be repeated.

• Row 4: Ch 1, sc 1, (dc 1, sc 1) across row, turn. Repeat the stitches inside the parentheses across the row.

Stitch Counts: A number in parentheses at the end of a row or round often tells you how many stitches you should have when that step is complete.

• Row 3: Ch 1, 2hdc, hdc in each st across row, turn. (5 hdc) You should have 5 half double crochet stitches when the row is complete.

Multiple Stitches in One Place: Parentheses may group stitches that should all be worked into the same stitch, space or ring.

• In MR (ch 3, hdc 3, ch 1, hdc 1, ch 1, hdc 3, ch 1, hdc 1), close ring, turn. Work all the instructions inside the parentheses into the magic ring before closing it.

Different Sizes: Parentheses are also used to separate instructions for multiple sizes.

• Sizes: Small (Medium, Large)
• Ch 111 (135, 171). Chain 111 for Small, 135 for Medium or 171 for Large.

Choose your size before beginning and highlight the corresponding number everywhere it appears in the pattern.

// Brackets

Brackets usually surround a larger repeat that contains a smaller repeat inside parentheses. Think of it like the order of operations in algebra: complete the instructions inside the parentheses first, then continue with the rest of the bracket.

• Row 6: Ch 4, [sk next dc, (5dc in next dc, sk 1 dc, sc in next sc, sk 1 dc) 3 times] across to last st, dc in last st, turn.

Begin with the chain 4, then work through the bracket. Skip the next double crochet, complete the sequence inside the parentheses 3 times and repeat the entire bracket across until only 1 stitch remains. Place a double crochet in the final stitch.

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Common Crochet Terms & Phrases

Your pattern’s abbreviation list should always be your first reference. The Craft Yarn Council also has a comprehensive list of standard crochet abbreviations, but here’s what some of the most common terms mean while you’re actually working through a pattern.

Abbreviation	Definition
CAL	Short for “crochet along”. This is an event when a group of crocheters works on the same project or different projects with the same goal at the same time. They will periodically share their work with one another based on the rules of the event.
Ch-sp	Short for “chain-space”. This indicates the space between stitches that is beneath a chain. If told to work into the ch-sp, insert your hook into this open space and not through the loops of the chain itself.
Fsc, fhdc, fdc	Short for “foundation single crochet”, “foundation half double crochet” and “foundation double crochet”. Foundation stitches are worked at the beginning of a project to replace the chain and the first row of stitches. Learn foundation stitches HERE.
FO	Short for “finished object”, this is any project that is considered complete.
Join	Join is used in a pattern to indicate connecting the end of a row with the beginning of that same row as with working in the round. A designer will indicate the join method you should use. Join can also be used when adding a new color to your project, as with standing stitches.
MR	Short for the magic ring, which is an adjustable ring used at the beginning of a crochet project, most commonly when working in the round. Learn an easy method of making the Magic Ring HERE.
RS/ WS	RS refers to the “right side” of your work, while the WS refers to the “wrong side”. If you were wearing a sweater, the right side would be the outside of the sweater, that faces the world. The wrong side would be the inside, which faces your skin. A pattern will reference the RS or WS when joining the work, turning the work, or completing special instructions.
Turn	Turn indicates rotating your work to look at the backside of the stitches you just completed. If you are right-handed, you crochet rows from right to left. When no more stitches remain in your row, turn your work to begin another row of stitches worked from right to left. You can turn your work clockwise or counterclockwise – it doesn’t matter. Learn about turning your work in my beginner crochet video.
T-ch	Short for turning chain. It is common for designers to use a series of chains at the beginning of a row as the turning chains. These chains may or may not replace a traditional stitch at the beginning of a row, and you should work into these chains when doing the last stitch in a row. The designer should indicate how many chains count as a turning chain. For example, ch-4 counts as dc + ch 1 means that the chain 4 at the beginning of a row replaces a traditional double crochet AND a chain 1 to follow.
WIP/ UFO	Short for work in progress or unfinished object. Refers to a project you have started but not finished.

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Where to Find Crochet Patterns

Like most things in crochet, the best way to get comfortable reading patterns is to practice, practice, practice. Start with a simple project that uses stitches you already know, then take your time reading through the pattern before you pick up your hook.

// Direct from the Designer. Your favorite designers’ websites and blogs are always a great place to begin. Purchasing patterns directly from a designer is one of the best ways to support their work, and many designers share free patterns too. Start your search with my crochet pattern library and collection of free crochet patterns.

// Pattern Marketplaces. Websites like Ravelry are a treasure trove of patterns from designers around the world. Use the filters to narrow your search by project type, yarn weight, difficulty or technique.

// Books, Magazines + Libraries. Don’t sleep on crochet books and magazines! Many include helpful instructions in the front followed by a collection of beautifully photographed patterns. Browse your local bookstore or yarn shop, and definitely check your library before buying. Need a few ideas? Watch my roundup of favorite crochet books.

Once you choose a pattern, practice finding the materials, measurements, gauge, abbreviations and Notes before reading the first line of instructions. You don’t even have to make the project yet. For now, the goal is simply to get comfortable finding your way around a written pattern.

Still have questions about how to read crochet patterns? Drop them in the comments!